Philpott Family Adventures: European Vacation 2023 (Part sept)

Today is a full day in Bordeaux. Since we arrived in Bordeaux prior to the cruise, we had some time already to take in the city and learn a bit of its history, so we're opting to skip the narrated walking tour and instead take the coach to the start of the tour, then set off on our own for some shopping and exploring parts of the city we haven't spent time in yet. 

Tuesday, June 27th

Morning cappuccino and croissant on the sun deck, watching the early commuters speeding by. So many bicycles - many pulling (or pushing) large trailers, and quite a few riders in business attire. I'm impressed by all the women in long, full skirts who manage to ride without catching their skirts in the chain! Quite a few early-morning joggers and dog-walkers, as well. Everyone wants to avoid the heat of the day, so although Bordeaux is generally a not-awake-until-10 kind of city, there is a burst of activity on the boardwalk between about 7 and 8am. 

After a slightly more substantial breakfast, we hop on the coach to take us deeper into the city. We learn a few interesting tidbits along the way, such as the fact that Bordeaux has its own Arc de Triomphe, the Porte de Bourgogne, which is at the start of the road to Paris, now called Cours Victor Hugo. 

We also learned that many of the buildings feature charming little faces, called mascarons, above the windows, which depict gods and goddesses, the building owners and their family members, and even imps and demons, similar to gargoyles. 

The coach let us off at the Place de la Republique, a public building which serves as a hub for city buses. There are several military monuments surrounding the square. 

But we were more interested in the nearby glacee (ice cream/gelato) shops. So many fascinating flavors! Tiramisu, violet, lavender thyme, raspberry, coffee, speculoos (similar to American cookie butter), salted caramel. 

We also found a comic and manga store that featured a window full of figurines from various comic strips and anime and manga series. I recognized Asterix and Tin Tin, both of whom we would see more of in Belgium, and a number of characters from my daughter's anime obsession. 

There were a number of buildings with unusual architecture, including this modern stone-and-glass courthouse (or, in French, the more elegant Palais de Justice), complete with a giant stylized wine vat. 

We stumbled across this glorious gothic cathedral, Cathedrale St-Andre. The arches, the play of light, the stained glass windows, the dramatic wood carvings, the huge pipe organ (which was not being played, but they did play a recording so we were able to appreciate its rich sound). 

We continued wandering through the retail and business neighborhoods and got a closer look at the famous "Falling Car of Bordeaux," a vintage Jaguar appearing to crash through the wall of a multi-story parking garage. 

We also came across yet another clock tower with a large arch leading into the city. It was also being admired by one of the many groups of touring schoolchildren we encountered (it was their last week before summer break), this one decked out in neon yellow vests. Safety first! (Also, No Man Left Behind.) Everywhere you turn there's another historic castle. 

We stopped at a few shops along the way. I had been admiring the outfits on many of the chic Frenchwomen that we passed, and I had noted a trend of loose cotton dresses in a particular shade of green that I dubbed "French green" in my mind. The color was also popular for accessories, like bags and jackets. I was determined to find a green dress as a souvenir for myself, as well as perhaps a fashionable chapeau (hat). I did not have any luck finding the right hat, but I did find a lovely green dress with a pattern of white leaves and vines and tiny splashes of metallic gold at a shop called Free Mode, as well as a few gifts for family and friends back home. 

In addition to the green dresses, loose, cropped, high-waisted cotton and linen pants were popular, often worn with cropped or snug-fitting tanks or tees, wedge sandals or flat sneakers, and accessorized with multiple layers of scarves, sweaters, light shirts, and jackets. Men also often wore scarves, and '80s preppie fashion was big as casual wear, including polo shirts with popped collars, lightweight sweaters tied over the shoulders, and cropped pants with loafers and no socks. Men and women frequently wore leather cross-body bags that were more like large fanny packs worn over one shoulder across the chest, most likely to accommodate bicycling. 

It was quite steamy by the time we got back to the dock, so there were plenty of people (and dogs!) cooling off at the spray deck next to the boardwalk. The sheen of water created a pretty reflection of the Place de la Bourse (Stock Exchange) across the street. 

Look at how French I am with my chic scarf!

Time for another delicious lunch on board ship! This is a typical lunch menu. I began with the caviar, ratatouille, and blini (might have had two - come to think of it, might have had three), then a serving of cream of artichoke and parmesan soup, accompanied by a baguette with butter and an icy cold glass of Sainte-Marie (a light, slightly dry blend of sauvignon blanc, semillon, and muscadelle grapes) that was my favorite of any wine we had on board. Dessert today was just a few bites of cheese - we have a special dinner tonight, so I tried to keep it light. (Ha!) 

I took the opportunity to change into my new dress - it was so light and comfortable that I decided to leave it on for our afternoon outing, another venture into town. We decided to use the local tram system to head toward the outskirts of town and check out some of the interesting buildings we had seen there - and also to determine if the tram would be a good way to show the kids around town when they join us here at the end of the cruise. It was easy to buy tickets at a machine next to the stop, and you simply scanned your ticket when you hopped on the tram. A lot of people didn't seem to scan their tickets, which confused us until we noticed that anyone under 18 or over 60, disabled, a caregiver, or unemployed could ride for free. 

We hopped off and followed a small path through some beautiful wildflower gardens and past a basketball court. We spotted a magpie harassing a bird that looked very much like our Northern flickers, and said hello to a little dog who was also enjoying the gardens. 

We continued along the main road and found this funny art installation. Is it a hat, or is it a spaceship? It's up to the viewer to decide. 

Right across the street is a futuristic building that houses La Cite du Vin, the Bordeaux Wine Museum. The design of the building is meant to evoke a wine glass, with the gold bands representing the "legs" that run down the sides of the glass as you swirl the wine. Unfortunately, we ran out of time to visit the museum, because we still had more exciting events before the end of the day!

In addition to the Crystal Dining Room, the Scenic Diamond boasts an exclusive small dining room called L'Amour. Every guest is invited to dinner in L'Amour once during the cruise, and this was the night our group was invited. The multiple-course meal represents cuisines from various parts of France, and is presented personally by Chef Julian. 

Our hosts and servers for the evening: (L to R) bartender Ricardo, server Ivo (who was also our cabin steward), server Barbara, Catering Manager Ivan, server Costa (who was quite the clown), and Chef Julian

We began our meal with a baguette with tuna spread, olive oil, and balsamic vinegar, accompanied by a lovely Cremant de Limoux white wine, followed by thinly sliced magret de canard fume (smoked duck breast) served over a fresh, light salad, with a glass of chablis; then la soupe au pistou (pasta and vegetable soup; pistou is a sauce made from olive oil, garlic, and basil); then risotto au saufan sux crevettes (tiger shrimp over saffron risotto); then the piece de resistance, cotes de bouef braise et champignons aux herbes frites (braised beef short ribs in burgundy wine with mushrooms, served over polenta with roasted root vegetables (there was also a vegetarian quiche which looked equally spectacular), paired with a rich Chateau Lousteauneuf Medoc; and finally, a choice of creme caramel, chocolate mousse cake, or a raspberry trifle. And of course, no French meal is complete without a cheese plate. 

Sante! 

A wonderful meal enjoyed by all!

There was no time to linger at the table, though, because we were off to an interactive art installation at La Bassin de Lumiere, a nearby repurposed submarine base. Back onto the coaches with our crazy friends!

An advertisement for an upcoming event

When we entered the building, we were presented with a glass of wine and directed to a large, dimly lit, cement room with a large reflecting pool and stadium seating along one side. And then the music and lights began...

After the initial presentation in the main room, we explored the rest of the building and discovered a smaller room called The Cube, which had large beanbag chairs around the walls so you could sprawl, sit, or lie comfortably while you let the lights and music wash over you. It was surreal but fascinating and delightful. And very, very French.

Another room was more like a long hallway and had displays explaining the history of the building, including the part it played in World War II, and its repurposing in 2020 into a public art exhibition space. Several of our fellow passengers recalled the events of the war personally (we were very much the youngest passengers on board), and it was a place of somber recollection and reflection. 

One more visit through the main hall before the show ended and we got on the coach and headed back to the ship for just a little more revelry before bed. 

Tomorrow, we head for the beach resort town of Arcechon!