Posts
This year seemed a bit subdued as Oscar fashions go: there
was nothing truly outrageous, either for good or for ill. There were no
particular trends that everyone seemed to be following, no single color that
everyone was wearing, no makeup or hairstyling technique that appeared over and
over. So how to organize my red carpet fashion thoughts for this particular
occasion? I’m going to focus on the single details that make or break a particular
gown or look.
Jennifer Aniston wore a long beaded column that would have
been spectacular except for one tiny misstep that’s not even noticeable in this
photograph: the long panels of the skirt were see-through – which would have
been fine had the top of the panel not veered up past the point of her hip. A
little peekaboo is a fine thing, but we really didn't need to see quite that much
of Jen’s (admittedly well-toned) thigh.
Cate Blanchett’s starkly simple black column was gloriously
set off by a heavy, chunky turquoise necklace, proving that a single statement accessory
can be all you need. Especially if you look like Cate Blanchett.
Jessica Chastain’s single notable detail was, unfortunately,
a poor choice of neckline. An hourglass figure is a glorious thing, but it
needs to be balanced or it quickly looks out of proportion. The broad neckline
and wide shoulders of this gown broadened her figure and made her look top-heavy.
Just pulling in the drape to the inside of the straps would have made all the
difference in the world.
I adored Marion Cotillard’s dress – until she turned around.
I’m not sure what the giant clump of fabric down her back was supposed to be,
but it looked both ugly and extremely uncomfortable. At least she looked
stunning as long as she was sitting on the monstrosity behind her. Naomi Watts
had a similar misstep with another gown that was lovely from the front, but
from the back it looked like she had gotten nervous about being too revealing
and had thrown on a sequined bandeau underneath her dress at the last minute.
Seaming is a subtle but effective way to create visual
interest and draw the eye, as demonstrated by both Viola Davis’s and Zoe
Saldana’s gowns. The lines of the seams were slimming and interesting, drawing
the eye in at the waist and creating a gentle, soft flare in the skirt. Two
very different looks but made effective with similar details.
Laura Dern and Scarlett Johansson both wore gowns that were
flawless, as were the figures underneath them. But the hairstyles ruined the
look for me. Dern’s hair flopping in front of her face was so distracting that
I could hardly pull my eyes away from it, and Johansson’s Brigitte-Nielsen-in-1985
flat top was too masculine and harsh for her feminine gown and jewel-encrusted
neckpiece. Never let a bad hairstyle steal the spotlight from your gown – or yourself!
Dakota Johnson and Gwyneth Paltrow both wore gowns that were
simple and lovely, with a single eye-catching shoulder detail. However, the
detail which worked in concept was not well executed in either case. Johnson’s silver
loop and knot was too bulky and uncomfortable-looking, and looked too much like
a military shoulder cord, which didn’t fit with the delicate style of the
dress; and Paltrow’s giant flower was out of proportion, distracting, and
vaguely…the female version of phallic.
I could pick any one of several details of Anna Kendrick’s
gown that made it work, but if I had to pick just one, I’d go with the color.
It’s not commonly worn (like black or red or champagne), and it sets off her
peaches and cream coloring beautifully. The color alone made her stand out in
the sea of beautiful gowns. Emma Stone also went with an unusual color, but
although it was eye-catching, it was not as flattering with her coloring, so
was not as successful.
A single pop of bright or contrasting color (costumers refer
to this as a “poison color”) can move a look from boring to spectacular. Reese
Witherspoon’s contrasting black bands break up the expanse of white and define and slim
her waist. Nicole Kidman’s simple column was a bland color with a straight
silhouette, a plain neckline, and only a single high slit to add visual
interest, until you add a bright crimson belt, then POW! You have a Look with a
capital L.
Keira Knightley’s maternity gown shows how an otherwise dull
look can be saved by spectacular fabric. This beautifully embroidered fabric
added texture, color, sheen, and subtle geometric lines to a gown style that
could have been boring, but instead was interesting and sweet and highlighted her
expectant glow. Similarly, the touch of embroidery on Kerry Washington’s peplum
brought interest and focus to an otherwise bland look.
Any guesses at to what fashion misstep I’m going to call
Lady Gaga out on? Cleaning the oven in red gloves, anyone? Elbow-length red
satin gloves would have saved the outfit; these weird flared things practically
had a “Rubbermaid” label sticking out of them.
Jennifer Lopez’s “single feature” was not so much the feature
itself, but the constancy of that feature: deep, cleavage-baring V-necks. I
liked this gown; I even liked the deep V. But when every single gown that you
wear has exactly the same feature, it’s time to try something new and
different.
Lupita N’yongo’s gown’s most memorable feature was that it
was made out of thousands of pearls! This gave her gown a fascinating texture,
and created beautiful eye-catching lines all over. Rosamund Pike’s
striking scarlet gown used contrasting textures to flatter: lace in the body of
the gown with smooth satin inserts at the waist, making her already tiny waist
seem even tinier. Subtle but effective.
So what are the details that can make or break a gown? A
single statement accessory or details; interesting fabrics, textures, and
seaming; effective use of a poison color; flattering your figure; and keeping
details like hair and accessories in the same style as your gown. And if all
else fails, get someone with a nice smile and good fashion sense to stay at
your side and you’re sure to be a winner.
