Anatomy of a Hat

After I posted yesterday's blog about hats, it occurred to me that although I probably know a bit more about hat styles than the average (hat-wearing) bear, there are quite a few terms for hat styles that I'm not entirely solid on. And I suspect that a lot of the folks who read that column don't have the slightest idea what makes a hat a "spectator hat" or a "cloche" or what the top part of a hat is called (it's the "crown"). So I thought I'd do a little research for you and put together this handy guide to women's hat styles.

First of all, we need to understand the "anatomy of a hat" - what are the different parts that make up a hat called?

Anatomy of a hat, from the Hats Unlimited website

This diagram is a man's hat, but all the various pieces and parts are the same for both genders. Here's a bit more information about each part:

• Crown: The upper part of the hat is called the "crown". An actual crown is pretty much just a ring that sets on top of your head; the crown of a hat is exactly the same thing.
• Crown shape: The top of the crown can be domed, flat, or "dented" into various shapes. The crown shape plays a significant part in making a hat a certain style.
• Hat band: Hats are often decorated with a ribbon or strip of material (fabric, leather, beading, etc.) circling the base of the crown. This hat band may be embellished with a knot or bow or other fancy details.
• Hat decoration: Certain styles of hat have a very specific type of decoration tucked into the hat band, which may range from small feathers to hugely elaborate loops and bows.
• Brim: The brim juts out from the base of the crown and shades the face. The brim may be any width, from narrow to wide; it may be not-existent (e.g., on a pillbox hat); or it may be a partial brim (e.g., on a baseball cap).
• Underbrim: The underside of the brim may be lined in a different material or it may simply be the underside of the brim.
• Inner band/sweatband: Exactly what it sounds like: The sweatband absorbs sweat from the brow, and also serves to keep the hat in place. Not all hats have an inner band.
• Inner liner: Not all hats have an inner liner, but sometimes the crown is lined with fabric. 

Now we get to the various styles of women's hats. The style is defined by the relative size and shape of some of the various components listed above. There is a large degree of variation in many of these styles, primarily in terms of how they are decorated. It's really the basic structure of a hat that defines its style, although a few types of hats require a very specific style of decoration (e.g., a man's Tyrolean hat is traditionally decorated with a small feather). Let's go in alphabetical order.

Beret

  

A beret is a soft fabric hat with a round, short crown and no brim, although it may have a kind of band at the base, as seen in the second photo above. Traditionally, they are decorated with a small "apple stem" at the top. In the 1940s, they were sometimes worn in a very flat style called a "pancake beret," as in the third photo, above. They have their roots in military garb, and are still worn by military members such as the Green Berets. They are often associated with artists, particularly French painters. 

Boater (also called a skimmer)

A boater hat is a straw hat with a medium-width brim and a low, straight-sided, flat-topped crown. Traditionally, it bears a red-on-blue striped hatband with two long tails trailing down the back, as originally worn by Venetian gondoliers, but today the tails are often omitted, and the hatband is more commonly black. Modern variations also change the height of the crown from quite short to relatively tall, and occasionally add a slight dome to the top of the crown. You may also recognize the style as being worn by traditional barbershop groups, and styrofoam versions are sometimes worn at political rallies, likely because of their red, white, and blue colors. 

Bowler (or derby)

   

Although primarily thought of as a men's hat, bowlers can also be worn by women. Generally made of sturdy felt, they have a high, domed crown, and a 2-inch brim that is bound along the edge and turned up at the sides and sometimes all around. If you are of a certain age, you likely associate a bowler with Patrick Macnee from the Avengers television series, or perhaps with Charlie Chaplin. A bowler hat and a derby hat are exactly the same thing, bowler being the British term and derby the American. However, a man's derby hat should not be confused with a woman's Derby hat, which is a highly decorated hat worn to the Kentucky Derby (see "Derby hat," below). 

Cloche

  

Popularized in the 1920s, a cloche is characterized by being very close-fitting to the head and somewhat bell-shaped, with a brim that may flare slightly or not, or which may be only on the front of the hat. A cloche may be made of wool, fabric, or straw, or even knitted or crocheted. It is often embellished with a hatband and bows, feathers, or flowers placed at the side, back, or front. Famous wearers of cloche hats include Clara Bow and the entire female cast of any version of The Great Gatsby ever filmed.

Cocktail hat (see "Fascinator," below)

Derby hat (or race hat)

  

A woman's Derby hat (not to be confused with a man's derby hat) is defined not so much by its shape or structure but by its size and elaborate decorations. Originating at the Kentucky Derby, large ornate hats are traditionally worn on race day still. Most Derby hats use a large sunhat as a base (the broader the brim, the better), and are whimsically and colorfully decorated with giant flowers, loads of huge feathers, yards of ribbon, and even full-on dioramas and figures.

Fascinator

  

Fascinators became hugely popular following the royal wedding of Prince William to Kate Middleton, who often wears them to formal events. A fascinator is a small (but often elaborate) hat or ornament that is pinned to the hair or worn on a headband, usually at a jaunty angle or on the side of the head. Fascinators can range from a small flower or feather accent to an oversized extravaganza. A fascinator is often incorrectly called a cocktail hat, the technical distinction being merely is that a cocktail hat is perched on the head while a fascinator is clipped to the hair or held on by a headband.

Fedora

  

Another style generally associated with men (particularly Humphrey Bogart and every other film noir detective in the 1940s and 1950s), the fedora is a varying style with a short to mid-width brim that turns up in the back. It may turn either up or down in the front (hats which can be converted from one style to another are called "snap brims"). The crown narrows slightly at the top and usually has a front-to back or teardrop-shaped crease and often a "pinch" at the front (shown clearly in the Bogart picture above). A fedora is generally unadorned by anything other than a hat band, which is usually the same color as the hat, which may very in width from very narrow to quite wide, and which may have a flat bow at the side. It is often worn at a rakish angle.

Kettle brim (also called up-brim)

  

Although this term is probably unfamiliar (I'd never heard of it before), the style is quite common as a casual sun hat. It has a somewhat short, straight-sided, flat or barely domed crown and a very broad brim that is turned up several inches or even rolled all around the edges. It is often worn quite low over the forehead, and usually straight across or just slightly tipped back. Most variations are straw, but dressier versions are sometimes made of organza or sturdy cotton. As a sunhat, it is often devoid of any decoration, even a hat band, but it can be dressed up with ribbons, bows, and feathers. It is commonly used as a base for a Derby hat, since the turned-up brim makes a convenient "shelf" for ornate decorations.

Picture hat (or Gainesborough)

  

Something of a precursor to the Derby hat, a picture hat is an ornately decorated hat with a wide brim, often featured in portraits of wealthy women painted by artist Thomas Gainesborough during the late 18th century, and the style is still popular today. Decorations have ranged from fresh flowers to huge bows to ostrich and marabou feathers to gemstones. Large picture hats are sometimes also called cartwheel hats. Camilla Parker Bowles is often photographed wearing a picture hat, and the "Ascot Gavotte" scene from My Fair Lady is full of marvelous picture hats.

Pillbox

  

Jacqueline Kennedy nearly single-handedly brought the pillbox into popularity in the early 1960s. Its distinctive round, brimless. straight-up, flat-crowned shape often has a small birdcage veil (which drops just below the eyes) attached, and it may be unadorned or be decorated with ribbons, bows, or flowers on the top. Other famous pillbox wearers include Doris Day and Audrey Hepburn. 

Tam

  

The tam is a woman's version of the traditional Scottish tam o'shanter (named after a character in a Robert Burns poem), and is somewhat similar to a beret. It is a soft, brimless hat with a round, full crown, often knitted or crocheted, and topped with a small pom-pom. Modern women's versions often replace the pom-pom with a small button or omit it altogether. The tam is generally worn drooping to the side or the back. Occasionally a small brim is added in front, creating an almost bonnet-like style, as in the third example above.


Let me know if there are any styles you're still confused about, or if I've missed explaining any!

In Your Easter Bonnet

I love hats. I wish I could get away with wearing a hat every day. I wear a hat any time I get a chance. Like on Derby Day.

Or to a Roaring 20s party. 

But most especially, on Easter. 

If there is any woman who only wears a hat once a year, I can almost guarantee you that the one time she wears a hat will be on Easter Sunday. 

But where does one go to buy a dressy hat these days? Well, you might be lucky enough to find a local hat store in your area, or you might have some luck at a chain store like T.J. Maxx or Target or Macy's that carries a small selection of dressy hats, particularly around Easter. But if you can't find a hat you love at a brick-and-mortar store, you still have time for some online shopping. Here are a few links to some marvelous hats that will look absolutely stunning on you on Easter (or any other time) - in just about any price range.

Under $20

Most nice women's dress hats are pretty pricy, but you can certainly find some pretty but less durable hats that will be fine for once-a-year wear for very low prices. 

This pretty, lightweight double-brimmed hat is ornamented with a large flower. Available in blue, pink (which looks more like purple), and light brown, it's only $12 from Light in the Box. 

If you like the general style of the previous hat but prefer something a bit more substantial, this watermelon linen version features a gently ruffled brim and a long bow. $17 from Barkin' at a Knot. 

You'll hardly even notice you're wearing this white, lightweight organza hat with long, graceful trailing bow. $19 from Twinkle Deals. 

This vivid purple organza hat features a deep, curved brim and tall crown, and is trimmed with a huge flower. $15 from Amazon. 

I just adore this pert, polka-dot straw boater, with its black ribbon hatband and hint of netting peeking out just past the edge of the brim. It's a steal at $7 from DressLily. 

$20-$50

In this price range, you can find plenty of really good quality hats in dozens of fabrics and materials, and in every style under the sun. 

You can break out the white at Easter, and this feminine ruffly white organza concoction would be lovely with white or any delicate shade of spring pastels. $27 from JJ's House. 

If you like hints of vintage styling, try this retro satin ribbon-trimmed cloche with feather and bow accents. Available in blush and grey, it's $34 for grey or $48 for blush at Macy's. 

Is a casual look is more your style? This straw cloche is trimmed with a narrow sage ribbon and matching cascade of sage-green burlap flowers. $45 from ModCloth.

Perhaps you prefer a more substantial hat. This deep purple wool hat with upturned brim is embellished with a cluster of silk roses, a wide velvet hatband, and a few feathers. $48 from DressLily.

Another slightly retro style, this low-crown tan and black picture hat features a delicate net veil, satin flowers, and feather decorations. $27 from Poshmark.


$50-$100
In this price range, you can expect not only really sturdy construction, but all kinds of fancy embellishments and subtle, elegant detailing.

This frothy, pink and white picture hat is embellished with a long, curly ribbon encircling the wide brim, and a pouf of white feathers tucked in with the multi-looped bow. Available in feminine pink and white or dramatic black and white, $79 each at Nordstrom.

Fantastical without being completely outrageous, this lavender "ribboniere" hat features an unusual raised brim and multiple looped ribbons trimmed with rhinestones radiating out from a large glittery brooch. A real bargain at $80 from Especially Yours.

This vivid red wide-brimmed, low-crown, upturned hat, embellished only with an intricate bowknot, makes a statement with its striking simplicity. $54 from JJ's House.

Another striking but understated look, this white and gold satin ribbon hat is trimmed with a flat looped braid and a large gold and rhinestone brooch. $65 from Overstock.

Perfect to pop over an updo hairstyle, this yellow and black angle-brimmed straw hat features a striped brim and elaborate mesh and ribbon petals studded with rhinestones. $60 from Divine Fashion.


Over $100
Once you pass the hundred-dollar mark, hats become bigger, glitzier, and each one more unusual than the last. These are truly one of a kind creations!

It doesn't get any more elegant than this striking midnight blue spectator hat with half-upturned brim and feather cluster. $248 from Salmagundi.

Outrageous but still soft and feminine, this purple satin flower hat is accented with mesh looped bows, small rhinestones, and a large rhinestone brooch. $120 from JC Penney.

These wrapped toques in shades of blue and rust are different but subtle, lying close to the head and with the ombre colors the only needed embellishment. $228 from Salmagundi.

This dramatic high-crowned hat features a hugely oversized, multi-looped bow trimmed with rhinestone ribbon and matching hatband. $140 from Especially Yours.

This scrumptious woven hat with upturned brim is trimmed with purple and deep rose satin flowers and the brim is edged with coordinating satin ribbon. $520 from Hats in the Belfry.


So go ahead and get shopping - and hats off to you!

You Don't Really Hate Broadway Music, You Just Think You Do

The other day I put together a list of great Broadway songs that kids will enjoy, but as I was putting it together, I had to eliminate a lot of great songs from the list because their subject matter was just a little too mature or complicated for young kids, or because they were too "ballad-y" or slow. But there are some terrific songs out there that adults who *think* they don't like Broadway music will be surprised to find that they enjoy. Most of these are from more contemporary musicals, but there are some from the earlier "golden era" of American musicals.

"Anthem" from Chess (Andersson and Ulvaeus)

A musical about chess, written by the guys from ABBA, seriously? Yes, seriously. In fact, if you lived through the 80s and listened to the radio ever, you already know a song from this show: "One Night in Bangkok." Not an especially typical song from the show, but certainly indicative of its varied, more-pop-than-legit-Broadway style. And yet, the score includes some gorgeous, more traditional ballads, including "Anthem," a moving and patriotic "love song" to Mother Russia. Other notable songs from the show include "Someone Else's Story," "A Model of Decorum and Tranquility" (a fascinatingly intricate quartet), "Nobody's Side," "Heaven Help My Heart," and "I Know Him So Well."

"The Story Goes On" from Baby (Maltby and Shire)

The musical "Baby" is the story of three couples who find themselves unexpectedly expecting: a young, unmarried pair of college students; a couple who has struggled with infertility; and an older pair of empty-nesters with completely different feelings about the possibility of having another child. This particular number is sung by the youngest mother-to-be as she thinks about how having a child connects her to her own mother and grandmother, and all the mothers before her. If this song doesn't bring a tear to your eye, you have a hard, hard heart. Other great songs from this show: "I Want It All," "What Could Be Better," "I Chose Right," and "Two People in Love."

"I Feel So Much Spring" from A New Brain (William Finn)

Yet another unexpected theme for a musical: a near-death experience from a blood vessel problem in the composer's brain. But as he comes to grip with his fear of dying, he learns to look at his life in a new way and discovers a new appreciation for those he loves. Songs range from funny to poignant, and include "I'd Rather be Sailing," "Time and Music," and "They're Off."

"I Can Do Better Than That" from The Last Five Years (Jason Robert Brown)

The most interesting conceit of this musical is that the two main characters follow opposite timelines, with Cathy reliving the relationship beginning with its breakup and going backwards until their meeting, and Jamie starting when the meet and ending at the end of the relationship. The show itself is not to everyone's taste, and is probably not the best introduction to musical theatre for a non-fan, but the songs stand alone as stories beautifully, and JRB's melodies and arrangements are catchy and memorable. Other great songs from this score include "Still Hurting," "Climbing Uphill" (especially hilarious to anyone who's ever auditioned for a show, but still pretty funny if you haven't), "Shiksa Goddess," and "The Next Ten Minutes."

"The Streets of Dublin" from A Man of No Importance (Ahrens and Flaherty)

I dare you to not sing along with this charming love song to a city (you'll do the accent, too - you know you will). It'll make you want to book the next plane to Ireland. I particularly enjoy the orchestration, with guitar, tin whistle, and fiddle giving it a true Irish pub feel. Other wonderful - albeit quite different - songs from this show include "Love Who You Love," "Going Up," and "Books."

"Don't Marry Me" from Flower Drum Song (Rodgers and Hammerstein)

R&H's 1958 musical didn't do badly on Broadway, but its Asian stereotypes have not aged well, and a 2002 Broadway revival with a completely rewritten book (but mostly unchanged score) lasted only six months. There are a number of fun songs from the show, however, including "I Enjoy Being a Girl," "A Hundred Million Miracles," and "Love, Look Away."

"Expressing Yourself" from Billy Elliot (Lee Hall and Elton John)

Continuing the theme of "unexpected plots," this musical about a young boy from a mining town in Northern England who wants to be a ballet dancer contains very non-traditional musical styles, although this particular piece has a very vaudeville feel. Other great songs include "Electricity," "Once We Were Kings," and "Deep Into the Ground."

"This is the Moment" from Jekyll and Hyde (Wildhorn, Bricusse, and Cuden)

Not surprisingly, this score includes a number of powerful emotional songs for the title character - well, characters, actually. The big eleven o'clock number is sung by the lead actor as he transforms back and forth between his two personas (David Hasselhoff, of all people, does a rather impressive performance of this number), but I find this earlier song from Dr. Jekyll as he triumphantly prepares to take his formula for the first time to be as impressive a number. Other numbers worth listening to from this show include "Facade," "Someone Like You," "No One Knows Who I Am," and "In His Eyes."

"Lonesome Polecat" from Seven Brides for Seven Brothers (Mercer, Kasha, Hirschhorn, and de Paul)

A funny song to listen to, this number is even better when the marvelous prop choreography is included, as six of the seven brothers mourn their singleness while cutting logs, incorporating axes, saws, and stumps into the slow and graceful dance. But my favorite part is the hilarious contrast of the soft, almost lullaby-like melody and balletic dance with lyrics like "can't make no vows to a herd of cows" and "a man can't sleep when he sleeps with sheep." Other delightful numbers from this show (most of which are even better when watching the choreography) include "Bless Your Beautiful Hide," "Goin' Courtin'," "Sobbin' Women," and "Wonderful Day."

"Take Me or Leave Me" from Rent (Jonathan Larson)

Disclaimer: I don't like this show. (Sorry. Please don't hurt me.) But boy are there some terrific songs in this score, and this is one of several that I can't help singing along with. Other singable songs include "Seasons of Love," "One Song Glory," "Light My Candle," "What You Own," and "I'll Cover You."

"Two Nobodies in New York" from [title of show] (Jeff Bowen)

A musical about writing a musical is an interesting concept even for non-musical fans, and this show pokes fun at itself in a way that's just as entertaining for non-theatre buffs as it is for musical fans. With only four characters, the songs are simple, with no huge production numbers, but rely on clever lyrics and rhymes and realistic storytelling. Other fun songs include "What Kind of Girl Is She?," "Nine People's Favorite Thing," and "Filling Out the Form."

"You Can't Stop the Beat" from Hairspray (Shaiman and Wittman)

This peppy, upbeat 60s-inspired score is full of fabulous songs - you'll feel like you know every number, even if you've never heard them before. Other great songs you'll find yourself singing along to include "Good Morning, Baltimore," "Welcome to the 60s," "Mama, I'm a Big Girl Now," "I Can Hear the Bells," "Big, Blonde, and Beautiful," and "Without Love."

"Let It Go" from The Full Monty (David Yazbek)

A bunch of unemployed steelworkers decide to take up stripping to help meet their bills. At times funny and at times poignant and despairing, this musical is surprisingly deep for its surface plot. Other great songs from the score include "Man," "Big Black Man," and the sweetly haunting "You Walk with Me."

"Big Bright Beautiful World" from Shrek, the Musical (Tesori and Lindsay-Abair)

Capturing the same irreverent humor as the animated film on which it was based, this song sums up the whole style of the musical as young Shrek's parents unceremoniously toss him out of the house and into the "big, bright beautiful world." Other great songs include "I Know It's Today," "Travel Song," "I Think I Got You Beat," and "The Ballad of Farquaad."


Other great songs and shows to check out:
"Always Look on the Bright Side of Life" from Spamalot (Eric Idle) - also "I am Not Dead Yet," "The Song That Goes Like This," ""Find Your Grail," and "You Won't Succeed on Broadway."
"We Can Do It" from The Producers (Mel Brooks) - also "I Wanna Be a Producer," "If You've Got It, Flaunt It," "Keep It Gay," and "Springtime for Hitler."
"Not for the Life of Me" from Thoroughly Modern Millie (Tesori and Scanlan) - also "The Speed Test," "They Don't Know," "Forget About the Boy," and "Gimme Gimme."
"What is This Feeling" from Wicked (Stephen Schwartz) - also "The Wizard and I," "Dancing Through Life," "Popular," "One Short Day," "For Good," and of course, "Defying Gravity."
"Mine" from On The Twentieth Century (Comden and Green) - also "Never," "Repent," "I've Got It All, " "Veronique," and "Five Zeros."
"Make Them Hear You" from Ragtime (Ahrens and Flaherty) - also "Prologue," "The Crime of the Century," "New Music," "What a Game," "Till We Reach That Day," "Your Daddy's Son," and "On the Wheels of a Dream."
"You're Nothing Without Me" from City of Angels (Coleman and Zippel) - also "The Tennis Song," "What You Don't Know About Women," "Everybody's Gotta Be Somewhere," "Ya Gotta Look Out for Yourself," and "Funny."