I love hosting Thanksgiving dinner. Not only is everything
on the standard menu on my “favorites” list, but the vast majority of dishes
are really not that complicated to make. Other than carving the turkey, which
my husband is in charge of, there are no fancy culinary techniques required.
There is nothing that requires long, laborious standing at the stove and
stirring or checking or testing. The peas, squash, gravy, and rolls are merely
heated. The mashed potatoes and creamed onions have just a few ingredients
tossed in and mixed up. Even the turkey is pretty much shoved into the oven and
forgotten about until the timer goes off. The most labor-intensive dish is
probably the dressing, and even that takes only a few minutes. Even the
preparation of the ingredients – and yes, after all my years of watching competitive
cooking shows, I do mentally refer to it as my mise en place – can be done quickly and easily the night before.
The only thing that makes preparing the Thanksgiving meal
complicated, for me, is getting the timing right. It’s like a high school math
word problem: If the turkey takes 1-1/2 hours at 475 degrees, and the dressing
takes 15 minutes at 350 degrees, how many hours will the potatoes need in the
crock pot on high if the guests are 15 minutes late and it takes 8-1/2 minutes
to carve the bird?
But I find the scheduling to be a fun challenge. Every year,
I carefully get out all my recipes and write up a timeline, starting with the
time I want my guests to sit down to dinner, and calculating backwards. I
always start with my template from the year before, so it’s rare that I have to
do much more than tweak a few times. But this year, my husband and I decided to
get wild and crazy and spatchcock our turkey. Yes, I admit that this is a
recipe that requires some degree of technique, since it involves butterflying
the turkey by cutting out the backbone and laying it spreadeagled (spreadturkeyed??)
on a roasting pan.
Before and after – it looks pretty ridiculous both ways, but at least
the “after” version looks like it’s wearing an expensive coat.
The idea is that this allows the meat to cook more evenly
and the skin to become nicely crispy all over, since it increases the surface
area of the bird as well as decreasing its thickness. It makes such a
difference that the roasting time for the turkey drops from my usual 6 or so hours
down to a mere 1-1/2. My usual early Thanksgiving morning routine - even before
my first cup of coffee!! - involved preheating the oven, slathering the turkey
with oil and wrestling it into the oven, grabbing a cup of coffee (phew), then taking
the turkey back out, flipping it over, stuffing it, wrapping it with foil, lowering
the oven temperature, wrestling it back in, then several hours later wrestling
it out again, unwrapping the foil, draining off the juices, lowering the oven
temperature yet again, and finally throwing it back in for a bit longer sans
foil to let the skin turn golden brown. This complicated recipe always resulted
in a moist, delicious, nicely-browned turkey, but I’m ready to try something a
bit less involved this year, in the hopes that the results will be equally
delicious but less time-consuming. So this year’s turkey routine involves a night-before
backbone-ectomy and dry brining with kosher salt, a quick rub with oil
and spices right before tossing it into the oven around noon and then ignoring it
until it’s time to take it out just after the guests arrive.
So the technique is easier (well, my part of it is, anyway;
my poor husband is in charge of the backbone-ectomy), but the math is harder. It
changes the schedule enough that I decided to toss last year’s template and
start from scratch. Let’s see, the guests should arrive at 2pm, so the turkey
should be carved at 2:30pm. But the turkey needs to rest for 20 minutes, so it
should come out of the oven at 2:10pm, which means it should go IN the oven
1-1/2 hours earlier, at 12:40pm. But the oven has to be preheated to 450 by
then, so add “12:20pm – Oven on to 450” to the schedule. And it will take a few
minutes to rub the turkey with the oil, so add “12:15pm – prep turkey” to the list.
I go through my entire menu, dish by dish, figuring out what prep needs to
start at what time, adding in the little tasks that can be done at any time
(such as “slice the cranberry sauce,” “set the table,” and “lay out crescent
rolls on baking pan”) during whatever vacant windows of time appear. This also
helped me realize that I have several dishes, including my appetizer, rolls,
and dressing, which are supposed to be baked at the same time as the turkey but
at a much lower temperature. This was never a problem in years past, as my
turkey roasted at the same temperature called for by these dishes, so I always
just popped them in right alongside the bird. A few quick calculations were
needed to figure out whether any of them can be baked while the turkey is
resting (yes for rolls and dressing, no for apps), and how long those that can’t
should be baked at the higher temp.
For anyone who’s curious as to what exactly a Thanksgiving
schedule written by a highly organized but rather tightly wound cook looks
like, here’s what mine looks like this year:
Day/night before: Cut up dressing ingredients & sweet
peppers for dip, make creamed onions, make pumpkin pie. Butterfly and dry brine turkey
in fridge overnight.
9:00am: Peel and chop potatoes, put squash in pot to thaw
9:15am: Start crock pot potatoes
12:15pm: Preheat oven to 450, sprinkle turkey with pepper and
rub with oil & paprika
12:40pm: Turkey in oven
1:00pm: Make stuffing, slice cranberry sauce
1:15pm: Check potatoes, mash and finish, leave on warm, make dip
1:40pm: Make gravy, prep crescent rolls, dip in oven
2:00pm: GUESTS ARRIVE, dip out of oven and serve
2:10pm: Turkey out and rest under foil, temp down to 375, boil
peas, heat onions and squash
2:20pm: Crescent rolls & dressing in
2:30pm: Crescent rolls & dressing out, carve turkey
2:40pm: Sit down to dinner
I bet that right now, some of you who are reading this are nodding
and thinking about your own similar schedules. And I bet that others of you are
thinking, “I need to do this!” But I bet that the majority of you are laughing
at how crazy I am. And that’s okay. I embrace my crazy; it gets dinner to the
table on time.
But if you REALLY want to see crazy, you should check out
the way I organize my serving dishes and utensils…
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