Red Carpet Fashion: The 2022 Oscars

Lots of things happened at the Academy Awards last night. Some good, and some not so good. I'll leave those to other people to hash out. All I'm going to discuss here is the red carpet fashions. So let's look at the looks! These reviews are alphabetical by first name, simply because that how I saved them in my computer.

Amy Schumer was one of the three hosts for the evening. Although I didn't love her dress in closeup, torso-only shots, I actually liked it quite a bit at a slight distance. I though the glitter bow outline was cute without being cutesy, and the simple, slightly clinging silhouette of the dress was very flattering, although the deeply plunging neckline was not as much. I also really liked her softly waved hair, but I wish she'd worn just a hint of lipstick, as she tended to look slightly washed-out next to her more heavily made-up co-hosts. 

I loved so many things about Ariana deBose's look: the color, the wide-legged trousers, the short curly 'do, the fabulous diamond jewelry (including a diamond-encrusted watch), and the long wrap which was cleverly attached to her elbows to keep it in place. The one thing I didn't love was the super-plunging sweetheart neckline. It looked fine in still photos, but as she moved, it looked very stiff and uncomfortable and not always well-fitted. But overall, a really terrific look. 

Aunjanue Ellis wore one of many voluminous and frothy gowns on parade last night, and one of the most successful. The color was lovely on her, and the various textures of the wrapped bodice and the tulle details on the skirt were interesting, as was the structure of the barely-off-the-shoulder sleeves, which proved that a structured bodice can move comfortably and flatteringly with the wearer's body. 

Ava DuVernay's black dress was voluminous but in a more understated way than some others. I liked its gathered, belted column style with attached drape, but the sharply squared-off shoulders studded with spikes didn't quite work with the rest of the look. I liked the little pop of color in her square pink clutch. 

Billie Eilish surprised me with this drastic change from her usual casual look. Her raven-black, flipped hair and soft, feminine makeup were simply gorgeous, and the black dress set off her perfect, alabaster skin. But the yards and yards of ruffles overwhelmed her and didn't quite seem to suit her natural style. A slimmed-down column with about half of these ruffles would have been amazing. But kudos to her for trying something different. 

Caitriona Balfour's white column was trimmed with a bubble peplum that cascaded into a deeply ruffled train. This style of gown could very easily have gone south (see Nicole Kidman, below), but the proportions were so beautifully balanced that it absolutely worked. I especially loved the jeweled straps which served to highlight her beautiful diamond necklace. 

 

I missed seeing H.E.R. on the red carpet, so my first look at her dress was when she walked onstage as a presenter, and I was not impressed. The dress did not move well, the train was clearly wrinkled, and she was fighting to get it out of the way as she walked and then to arrange it once she hit her mark. Even worse, the lime green color - which I loved - clashed horribly with her co-presenter's emerald green tuxedo. But seeing it in photographs, I did like it, and I absolutely adored her shoes. But two lessons learned: 1) Presenting is like going to the prom: always consult with each other to avoid clashing; and 2) Practice moving and walking in your gown ahead of time so that it looks as good on stage and in your seat as it does standing in front of a mirror and walking the red carpet.

Jada Pinkett Smith wore what I considered the most successfully voluminous gown of the night. The bodice was an elegantly ruched jacket with a standup collar and the skirt was full all over with a long, puffy train. I wondered how she could sit in it, but when I saw her in the audience it was gracefully spread around her and she looked very comfortable, so clearly she had already learned the lessons above. Also, I adored her large silver earrings and lush lashes. Simply gorgeous. 

Jennifer Garner frequently wears red columns, and this was a lovely example. Its neckline plunged as deeply as some other gowns that I disliked, but it was narrow enough and well-designed enough to look flattering and comfortable, and the draped shoulder details softened the stark angles of the neckline and the sleek silhouette just enough. 

I loved Jessica Chastain's lavender gown, but it wasn't quite the right color on her. The copper-sequined bodice was wonderful, and the frothy ruffles at the hem gave the skirt a nice little bounce, but I just didn't feel it was as flattering on her as it might have been. (But I understand I am in the minority here.)

Jessie Buckley's simple champagne gown had a lovely silhouette and a graceful, large train, but the fullness of the skirt had a heavy, bulky feel to it that seemed to be at odds with the rest of the look. She wore minimal, natural makeup and a simple short hairstyle, which were fine, but I felt like she needed some kind of brighter accent somewhere to give the look a "pop," such as a necklace, earrings, or bag with a little color to it. 

Julianne Hough's bright yellow gown was very similar in style to Jennifer Garner's, except with the addition of a soft train. The gown itself was fine, and although it was not the best color on her, it could have worked, if not for the pale makeup and overly dark lips and the stark hairstyle. Soft waves and more gentle color would have been a better choice.

Kristen Stewart's punk look was not terrible, but it could have improved a few details. When I saw her during the show, she was wearing thin ankle-length socks that I HATED, so I was happy to see that she hadn't worn them on the red carpet. I did feel that the shorts were just a bit too short, and I didn't love the shirt narrowly open all the way to the waist, but her bleached, side-swept hair was perfect, her makeup suited the look and her personality, and she was clearly comfortable in her outfit, so I'm calling this a success even though it wasn't quite perfect. 

A brunette Lily James stunned in this ice-pink lace frock with a thigh-high slit and one of the many fabulous diamond chokers seen on the red carpet last night. My only objection was that it was just a tiny bit too see-through under the bright lights (I'm glad to know she's wearing underwear but I don't need to see it, thanks). But the lines and the tailoring were utter perfection.

Lupita Nyong'o shone in a lovely coppery-gold metallic dress. The bodice had small white flowers all over it, and the skirt had long fringe-like strips that caught the lights and shimmered when she moved. Her piled-high updo added even more old-school glamour to this fabulous look.

Maggie Gyllenhall is not a red carpet favorite of mine, so I was very pleased to see that she chose an interesting but not too weird dress. I really loved the structure and simple lines of this simple black column with its stiff bodice, and the metallic accents hinted at an Asian influence without being overdone. Very nice!

Marlee Matlin proved that covered can still be incredibly sultry in a wrapped red satin gown with a jewel neckline, long sleeves and a short train. Her blond waves channeled Hollywood glamour at its finest. 

A slightly less successful version of "covered up," Maya Rudolph wore a loose orange v-neck muumuu style dress trimmed with marabou. Although I didn't hate it, I prefer her in slightly more tailored, fitted looks, although I do appreciate that she always looks lovely even in more conservative styles.

Megan Thee Stallion was one of many attendees in asymmetrical waist-baring looks. It wasn't one of my favorite trends, but I was fascinated by the cascading ruffles that managed to be soft yet have some body to them at the same time. I also really liked the silvery-grey-blue color. This gown was nicely tailored so it moved with her body and hugged her curves in a very flattering way. The best example of this style, in my opinion. 

Mila Kunis's satin gown had a lovely asymmetrical bodice with a belt and a full side train that was elegance personified. Her long dangling earrings and an adoring husband on her arm were all the accessories she needed. Lovely!

Another look that worked in red carpet photos but somewhat less as the wearer walked and moved, Naomi Scott's deep purple column featured a structured cape-like jacket with elaborate beading and quilted patterns. But both the cape and her heavily gelled hairstyle looked stiff and awkward when she moved. Next time, save this look for a photo shoot and wear something less structured on the red carpet.  

Nicole Kidman was very close to hitting it out of the park with this look, if only the giant "pouf" at the waist had been a bit less giant. The dove-gray column with its narrow twin strips of train, paired with deep red lips, a soft chignon with a few loose tendrils, and a stunning diamond necklace were all marvelous, but the pouf was just out of proportion and clearly wrinkled after sitting. But I will admit that I spied her later in the evening topping her look with hubby Keith Urban's tux jacket and she looked perfectly adorable, so all is forgiven. 

Another successful "covered up" look was worn by Olivia Colman, in this softly pleated, silvery-white belted gown with high neck and long bell sleeves. It moved and caught the light beautifully, and her dark hair and eyes contrasted nicely. Such a great look for her!

Penelope Cruz wore what may have been my favorite look of the night. Her black gown had a full skirt (WITH POCKETS!!) but what really caught my eye was the wide ruched bodice with tiny buttons up the front and gathered over the bustline, with unusually-structured halter-style straps brought together in front with a cute black-and-white print bow. 

Another gown I really loved was Reba McEntire's deep emerald green column. These squared-off shoulders were executed better than many, and I loved the way the asymmetrical bodice gathered on one side without looking lopsided (not an easy feat), and was echoed by similar gathering at the waist.

I wanted to love Rita Moreno's look, I really did, but I just didn't. The general structure of the dress was lovely, but the one-shoulder ruffle dropped too low on one side, and the ruffle itself was too big and heavy. I don't know what was going on with that hat (and anyone who knows me knows I'm a huge fan of hats) - I think it just blended too much with her natural hair color and looked like badly frosted tips - but I did love the giant diamond buckles on her shoes. But in the end, she's Rita Moreno and she can wear whatever she damn well pleases and I'll still love her for it. 

Rosie Perez knocked it out of the park in one of many similar red gowns, this one with a slightly clinging silhouette wrapped at the waist, halter straps, shoulder drapes, and a chiffon train off the shoulders as well as a short train on the skirt. 

Ruth E. Carter, in true costume designer fashion, wore a striking black-and-white ensemble with a fantastical structured jacket that arched stiffly out to each side. It was an interesting look that unfortunately lost its shape over the course of the evening and turned into a lopsided mess. But I loved it anyway!

 

15-year-old actress Saniyya Sidney was positively radiant in this delightful floral print ball gown. She and the dress are both so fresh and pretty. This look should set the standard for young actresses on the red carpet - beautiful, age-appropriate, flattering, and clearly enjoyable for the wearer.

Serena Williams' deep mauve and black gown was a bit of a mix for me. I loved the general silhouette, especially the soft pleated skirt with a hint of a train and a thigh-high slit; the full, gathered sleeves; and the black appliques along the neckline; but I found the squared-off shoulders to be less than flattering on Serena's athletic figure; the neckline was a little too widely open for my taste; the black lace gloves looked bulky and industrial; and the sheer skirt showed too much granny panty. Close, but not quite. 

Metallic silver and gold dresses are popular at the Oscars, and Sian Heder carried the look off exceptionally well. Her soft column was barely sheer fabric covered with thousands of tiny mirror discs, which sparkled when she moved and created an illusion of sheerness while revealing only shadows. Its simple tailoring, with long sleeves and a jewel neckline, allowed the fabric itself to (literally) shine without distraction. Just wonderful. 

Sofia Carson's full black ballgown felt light and airy, and I loved the sheer wrap that went over and around her shoulder. My only objection was that the sheer bodice revealed a structured corset top that looked out of place with the rest of the look. One more wrap of chiffon to make the bodice opaque and this gown would have been number one on my list. 

Tracee Ellis Ross wore a bright red gown that was absolutely gorgeous from the waist up and absolutely horrible from the waist up. I loved the skirt that was fitted at the waist and hip, but then flared out at the sides into a modern version of panniers. But the stiff flaps of the bodice were both unflattering and constantly in danger of being in the wrong place relative to her body. I only realized how much I loved the rest of the dress when Ross held the red envelope with the winner's name in front of her chest, covering up the terrible bodice. I hope her stylist has it remade with a different bodice or a jacket, because with that change it will be a winner. 

Venus Williams' look also fell a bit short for mer.  The overall line of her white column with its short side train was lovely, and I adored her wide silver cuff bracelets and loose wavy hair, but the deeply plunging neckline was too broadly open and did not flatter. Bring that opening into a large keyhole, keep the silver trim along the edge, and this would have been a much more successful look. 

Zendaya could wear a burlap sack and look stunning, so it's no surprise that she made this cropped white satin dress shirt paired with a sleek narrow silver skirt with train look elegant and glamorous.

Zoe Kravitz's pink gown came very close to succeeding for me, but the waist was slightly higher than her natural waistline and the skirt was a little bulky at the waist, which resulted in her looking like she had terrible posture. I also found her slicked-down bangs and tightly pulled-back hairstyle a little too severe for the delicate color and cut of the dress. 

Overall, a lot of hits, very few misses, and a handful of almost-but-not-quites. Best of the night for me? Jada Pinkett Smith, Penelope Cruz, and Zendaya, with a special Youth Award for the adorable Saniyya Sidney. Congratulations to all the winners, nominees, and everyone who walked the red carpet with their heads held high!