Wednesday, February 8, 2023

2023 Grammy Awards Red Carpet: The Men

I don't usually review the men's fashions on the red carpet of most awards shows, simply because it's generally a sea of standard black tuxedos with a few slightly funky takes and a small handful of avant garde looks (*cough* Billy Porter *cough*). But there were enough interesting looks on the men at this year's Grammy Awards to warrant a review of their own. Well done, gentlemen! Well, most of you, anyway. 

Let's start off with the disasters and work our way up to the cooler versions of classic. 

Although the Grammys are a little more casual than, say, the Oscars, some men took the idea of casual a little too far. 

Gus Kenworthy looked ready to paint the walls rather than walk the red carpet in painter's overalls over a white polo shirt, with heavy-soled, square-toed black shoes. At least the overalls were clean? That's the highest praise I can think of for this look. 

Benny Blanco went casual but funky in a denim ensemble consisting of a brightly embroidered oversized hoodie with a large rainbow on one sleeve, and a pair of long shorts with similar embroidery at the hem. I was less of a fan of his footwear, which was ruffly ankle socks over black t-strap Mary Janes (which, according to a quick Google search, may have been $1,200 Pradas - but they're still ugly). 

Omar Apollo paired baggy, faded jeans with an open casual collared shirt over a white tee, topped with a boxy leather jacket with lapels, and thick-soled black leather shoes. As a casual look, it was great. I loved the cut of the leather jacket and the coordinate style of the jacket and shoes, but I wish that either the pants or the shirt had been a little dressier to suit the occasion. 

Casual denim can work on the red carpet when done right, as Miguel proves in this fantastic floor-length hooded coat, baggy jeans, and (attached, I think) slouchy boots - all in faded, acid-wash denim. The super-white tank underneath was a great choice, as were the nice leather belt and cooler-than-cool shades. This is how to do red carpet denim. 

Pharrell Williams wore a quilted and studded red leather track suit accessorized with patent leather shoes, a black leather cap, and a fabulous pair of diamond-encrusted sunglasses. (At one point he also added a gorgeous thigh-length fur coat.) The accessories made the look, but what really bumped it up another level was that his significant other wore the same track suit in black, along with matching patent shoes. Classy and cute. 

Quavo opted for a "casualized" not-exactly-a-suit look, with baggy, super-long black pants (still not sure how they weren't filthy at the bottom) and a broad-shouldered casual black jacket over a black shirt, blinged up with plenty of silver necklaces, bracelets, and rings, and a pair of oversized sunglasses. I hate the pants, but if they had been hemmed at a reasonable length, this look would have worked for me.

Questlove also opted for a non-tuxedo jacket in a nearly calf-length black-and-white lapel-less jacket with dropped shoulders, over a basic black shirt and dress pants. The cut of the jacket was not particularly flattering, but the concept wasn't bad. Some oversized shoulder pads would have improved the look noticeably. 

BLXST wore a casually-cut jacket and pants that faded from black to white in an interesting optical illusion pattern that really worked for me. He added a few additional funky-formal details in a large blingy necklace and silver-and-black dress shoes. Nicely done. 

Going even further along the "funky" spectrum, Thundercat wore a long, straight black skirt (I think; it may possibly have been wide-legged pants) topped with a long mesh tunic with a scoop neck and flared sleeves, accessorized with multiple short necklaces (including, hilariously, a large Sonic the Hedgehog pendant), fabulous black patent loafers, and Princess Leia-esque braided buns. Nice style.  

Harry Styles opted for a different kind of funky in high-waisted, sequined harlequin flared overalls worn shirtless and with white shoes. It was weird and memorable, but I didn't find it especially fashionable. 

Sam Smith went all the way to runway chic in a voluminous red robe with puffy sleeves and collar, topped with a red top hat with attached red birdcage veil and accessorized with red gloves and a red walking stick. It was certainly memorable, if not particularly interesting in terms of its cut or construction. 

The next group of celebrities took the idea of a tuxedo and made it funky with different cuts, colors, and fabrics, with varying degrees of success.

Machine Gun Kelly wore head-to-toe metallic silver, in a great double-breasted lapel-less jacket that's nipped in at the waist, slim pants, and coordinating cowboy boots. Fabulous!

Tom Daley also wore head-to-toe silver, although his was more burnished silver and I think it was actually a belted jumpsuit. I liked the way the diagonal chain (possibly a small purse?) cut across his chest, and I liked the flare of the pants. 

Fat Joe chose a deep coral theme in slightly overlong pants, a cropped, double-breasted, square-shouldered jacket over a t-shirt in the same color (that he unfortunately chose to wear untucked, and it showed below the hem of the jacket), accessorized with slightly lighter shoes and sunglasses. I liked it!

Anderson .Paak chose a upholstery print tuxedo with simple black piping around the lapel, worn over a plain white tank. It could have come off as overly busy, but the simplicity of the accessories made it work.

Davis Burleson went with a beige-and-black striped tux with wide-legged pants and a slightly nipped-in jacket and no shirt. It was a great silhouette, but I would have loved a tiny pop of color, perhaps in a low-necked orange or green tank or a funky pair of shoes. (Incidentally, Scott Hoying of the Pentatonix wore an identical suit with a white tank and white shoes, and I liked it much better.)

Lucky Daye wore a black sequined suit with flared pants and a lapel-less jacket featuring a heavy silver detail that appeared to be melting. It was funky but looked awfully uncomfortable and heavy. I would have preferred it if the silver looked more like fabric or some kind of slightly flexible material, because the lines were visually appealing. I also really liked his square-toed shoes.

The Brothers Osborne wore two different style of funky tux: one in a double-breasted turquoise jacket with an unnotched satin collar, matching skinny pants, and white dress shirt and shoes; while the other opted for an orange-on-black floral pattern cropped jacket and matching wider-legged pants, paired with a tan cowboy hat and brown cowboy boots. The turquoise was my favorite of the two, but I did like that they each showed their individual personality.

Mick Fleetwood showed everyone how to do a funky tux with class in this impeccably tailored black-and-white pinstriped jacket-and-vest duo with wide textured gold lapels, long gold chains and a watch fob (A WATCH FOB!!!), black skinny jeans, patent black shoes, and a black cowboy hat. THAT'S classic rock.

Perhaps my favorite look among the men was Myles Frost in super-skinny black pants, polished black loafers without socks, and this absolutely marvelous gold-and-black pattern jacket, worn shirtless. It was hot AND it was cool. 

Although I appreciated the intent behind Jacob Collier's red ensemble with black stripes and patterns, it was a bit much for me. I didn't love the mismatched sleeves, and the mix of stripes and patterned patches felt a bit too busy. Lose the patches and make both sleeves striped, and I'd have liked it much better. I think I also would have gone with a black shirt. 

I was fascinated by the construction of Cole Walliser's tux pants, with seams at the front of each leg held together with a row of studs (similar to a French cuff), and leaving a notch just above the foot, which created a very flattering and unusual silhouette. I also loved how the double row of buttons on the cropped, double-breasted jacket echoed the double line of the studs. And the monochromatic aqua color was completely striking on him. 

Marco Antonio Solid showed that an interesting choice of color and fabric can bring a standard tux to life, with his lapel-less magenta and black brocade tux jacket worn with black skinny pants and an open-necked black dress shirt. Two thumbs up right back at you, sir. 

Although it's not exactly a tux jacket, the rich spangled fabric of Babyface's short coat was elegant enough to be included in this category. I loved that he accessorized with a double pearl choker, which prevented the look from being too dark or heavy. 

Edgar Winters gave off the hilarious vibe of "they can make me wear a tux but I'm still wearing my favorite t-shirt and comfy shoes". I liked the little detail of sparkly piping along the edge of the tux and the cool blue-tinted shades. 

I have no idea who Walter Russell III is, but this kid has got style in SPADES. His marvelous yellow 3-piece suit featured double rows of black piping around one sleeve and from ankle to shoulder on one side of the pants, the long vest, and the super-short cutaway jacket, worn over a blue shirt and bowtie that coordinated with his marvelous cobalt blue satin pumps. And OF COURSE he had a pocket square. Chef's kiss, kid. 

Finally, we get to the really classy classic tuxes. These were more traditionally cut and less funky than the group above, but still a step beyond a basic black or white tuxedo.

Steve Lacy wore an impeccably tailored double-breasted slim fit black tux with square shoulders and broad lapels and no shirt, but what truly made him stand out was his gorgeous diamond brooch and black patent shoes with pointed white diamond tips. Spectacular. 

Smokey Robinson was one of many men who wore a three-piece suit, but his stood out because of its lovely aqua color accented with black piping, buttons, and lapels, worn over his signature black mock turtleneck with short gold chain. This man is a classic in every way. 

"Sleek" is the word I think of when I see Zach Lugo's long, slender velvet jacket with satin shawl collar and narrow satin stripes. The pants were slightly baggy, but the long lines of the satin ribbon, as well as the shirtless, low-button jacket created an elegant, slim silhouette. Nice.

Another sleek take on a classic tux was Landon Barker's black tux with nipped-in-waist and waist cutouts, narrow leather bands angled at the shoulders, and slim pants, paired with elegant square-toed black boots. Just a few details, but they make for a great and different look. 

LL Cool J followed the trend of double-breasted jackets, only his was a dark charcoal that bridged the gap between his grey shirt and his black necktie, pants, and dress shoes, as well as his signature beanie hat. It doesn't get any cooler than Cool.

Chris Olsen glammed up his classic black tux with a velvet jacket studded with lines of silver spangles, but then dressed it down with a more casual, open-collared white dress shirt. I also loved his black suede boots. 

I loved the relaxed silhouette of Sebastian Yatra's double-breasted, bugle-beaded jacket and pants. The pants were cut long but the fabric slouched softly at the ankle instead of looking poorly-hemmed, and I loved the beaded underlayer extending from behind the lapel. Interested and different, but still classic and elegant. What a great way to end our list!



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