Yesterday I covered all the nominees, without much commentary. But today, the gloves are off, and I'm critiquing all the high-end fashions on the red carpet. As has been the trend of late, the majority of looks fell into the color categories of black, nude/champagne/blush pink, red, and silver/white, but I'll add a few looks that didn't fit into any of those color palettes. I'll also add a separate category for the men, since after all those boring black tuxes in yesterday's entry, the men who rocked it deserve sartorial recognition.
Black
Alba Rohrwacher wore a black velvet Valentino gown with taffeta ruffles along the neckline and flared skirt, and with black and white organza ruffles at the cuffs. I didn't love the separate ruffled collar, which left small peeps of skin at the shoulder, and the bulk at the cuffs was a little much. It was the kind of look that an offbeat celebrity with huge presence, like Helena Bonham Carter or Angelica Huston, could pull off, but Rohrwacher can't quite make it work.Margaret Qualley's Chanel gown appeared simple and almost boring from the front, with a wide boat neck and cap sleeves, but in the back, the gown plunged open to the waist to frame a stunning long diamond tassel necklace which also formed a short collar in front. Her hair was styled into a high, puffed chignon that set off her matching diamond earrings. Once again, the accessories and the styling make the outfit, especially with a simple gown. Marlee Matlin wore a gown with long sleeves, a square neckline, and a flared skirt that fell into a short train, with beaded gridlines lines on the bodice, vertical velvet bands mimicking boning, and a graceful curved front inset with floral beading. The skirt featured a sheer overlay that was also beaded for a hint of sparkle. She wore a stunning diamond statement necklace and matching earrings, and her blond hair was flipped under. Very feminine, and very pretty. Miley Cyrus was an example of a relatively good dress that was spoiled with poor styling. The silhouette of the McQueen dress worked well, with a high-necked halter bodice that was beaded and fitted to the hip, where it flared slightly and ended in a short train. But the not-even-wrist-length black lace gloves felt out of place and didn't work with the Boucheron diamond cuff bracelet, and her swooped-up-at-the-hairline hairstyle emphasized her high forehead, while her bleached eyebrows (why??) and nude makeup completely washed out her face. I did love her long diamond earrings, so that's something, I guess. Paz Vega wore a two-piece look by Roberto Diz that topped a skirt that flared from mid-thigh with a strapless fitted top covered with feathers that flared into a curved high-low peplum and featured a flat ribbon bow at the top. Although I liked the silhouette in general, it felt like the peplum flared out too high above the waist, making Vega look very short-waisted and creating too much of an arch at the front of the peplum. But I loved Vega's sideswept hair and hoop earrings, and the feathers were just enough without being too much. Stacy Martin wore and black-and-white floral lace Louis Vuitton gown with a star-shaped, structured skirt. I loved the lines of the bodice and the wide black band above the hem, but the dress moved poorly and looked horribly awkward and ungainly from most angles. Martin's diamond necklace and earrings were gorgeous, and her hairstyle was lovely, but the skirt was not executed well. Yasmin Finney wore a Harris Reed strapless sheath with a dramatic three-pointed neckline with delicate black ostrich feather tips that arched up from the bodice to frame her face. She accessorized with sheer black opera gloves by Handsome Stockholm, and a subtle gold necklace and earrings by David Yurman. It was different enough to be memorable without being so different that it was weird. A really well done outre look.
Nude/Champagne/Blush Pink
Anok Yai was striking in a dark champagne satin custom Marni strapless mermaid gown. While I loved the lines and the concept, there were a few errors in execution: the panels at the hem of the dress were slightly crinkled and bubbly, and the dress was too tight at the waist, causing both horizontal creases and a visible belly button. I did like the addition of a boa, which seemed to be made of fabric shards rather than feathers, which I liked, but the color was too dark, both too close to her skin tone and too different from the dress. A deep copper would have worked better, especially if the top of the bodice had also been trimmed with a band of copper. Her DeBeers diamond necklace with teardrop pendant, however, was fantastic and worked really well with the cut of the gown.The "clam basque" at the waist of Ariana Grande's blush pink Schiaparelli gown by designer Daniel Roseberry was supposedly inspired by a vintage lamp. The silk and tulle skirt was embellished with hundreds of thousands of sequins, rhinestones, and beads. I love the structure and smoothness of the satin bodice, and I even like the basque. But having the skirt fall from the edges of the basque rather than from underneath, close to the body, creates a bottom-heavy look and reminds me of a heavy curtain. Her DeBeers necklace and earrings were lovely, but too delicate for the bulky skirt. I also feel like Grande would be more flattered by a slightly more saturated pink. Not a terrible look, just one with a few missteps.
Charlotte Lawrence wore a dusty rose organza gown from Valentino. The gown featured a raised waistline, a plunging v-neck, flared three-quarter sleeves, deep ruffles at the sleeves and hem topped with metallic gold detailing, a satin belt with a large flat bow, and pink and gold gems all over. The dress was fine, if a little more prairie than boho, and I loved her diamond necklace and loose updo with soft tendrils framing her face. But what was with the ugly plastic child's piggy bank carried as a purse?
Connie Nielsen wore a dusty rose chiffon Elie Saab design with a sweetheart neckline, a wrap detail at the hip with a swath that fell over one shoulder and formed a train, and a sheer full skirt. I loved the lines, but the sheer skirt with the granny panty didn't work for me, and although her vintage emerald necklace from Joseph Saidian & Sons was gorgeous, the vivid green looked out of place with the more subdued colors of the gown. Her satin criss-cross strap sandals were gorgeous, though.
Emma Stone wore a custom Louis Vuitton sleeveless nude column covered with iridescent white fish-scale-inspired sequins. The Art Deco-inspired gown featured a deep, curved v-neck and a straight skirt with a hint of a train, and Stone emphasized the '20s feel with marcelled waves in her hair and diamond drop earrings. She was the cat's pajamas!
Julianne Hough went for a more sultry '40s look in a champagne chiffon Christian Dior gown shading from lighter to darker tones, with an asymmetrical halter neckline ending with a scarf tossed over one shoulder. She carried out the '40s feel with a full, waved bob, Martin Katz diamond drop earrings, and a vivid red lip. Very Grace Kelly.
Mikey Madison combined glamour and delicacy in a two-toned strapless Dior gown. The empire bodice was black velvet, with a pale pink satin skirt topped with a flat bow, fitting to the hip before dropping straight down, with a full satin train falling from the waist. She accessorized with a diamond necklace with a long pendant and matching diamond bracelet by Tiffany & Co., with her hair in a demure center-parted chignon. With her soft, subtle makeup, she channeled glamour without being overdone.
Monica Barbaro wore a pink satin Dior ballgown with a crystal-topped, fitted empire bodice, and a bell-shaped skirt formed by inverse pleats. The gown had simple, elegant lines and plenty of movement, and the delicate crystals were not outshone by her delicate diamond choker with small pendant and matching ring from Bulgari. Sweet and elegant.
Rachel Zegler wore a nude chiffon strapless gown by Dior embellished with crystal and pearl beading. The corset-style bodice ended in a point and was topped with a fabric twist, and the full skirt had a short train. I loved the style of the dress, but the way the bodice sat on her torso, it looked like it wasn't fitted properly. The fabric twist was not vertically centered on her bust, and the bottom of the corset fell well below her natural waist, which made the top of the dress look both too long for her, and as if it were sliding down her body. I loved her delicate diamond necklace and earrings by Chopard, and her long dark wavy hair, but the overall look felt slightly off.
Selena Gomez, on the other hand, was spot on in a nude, off-the-shoulder custom Ralph Lauren gown embellished with tens of thousands of airbrushed glass and crystal beads forming a lattice. Her diamond choker and diamond earrings, as well as her sideswept waved bob, completed her nod to Sophia Loren, who inspired this look (and whose tailor Gomez consulted with regarding her look). Sophia must have been proud.
Red
Gal Gadot wore a scarlet satin strapless Prada ballgown with a simple, fitted bodice and a full skirt gathered into curved diagonal seams at each hip. The gown had simple lines with just enough unusual detail to avoid being boring, and her vintage gold, platinum, and diamond Tiffany & Co. collar and sleek updo framed her face beautifully.
Queen Latifah wore a candy apple red satin custom Christian Siriano gown. The gown featured a curved v-neckline with off-the-shoulder ruffle details, subtle corset seaming on the bodice, slight draping gathered in to one hip, and a short train. Although I liked the general look, the shoulder details were a little too big for Latifah's relatively broad-shouldered physique, so she looked vaguely top-heavy. But her diamond necklace and long earrings were spectacular, and her hair and makeup were perfect.
Raye looked very Gilded Age in a sleeveless custom Vivienne Westwood corset gown with narrow off-the-shoulder straps, a softly draped, tightly fitted bodice, and a full skirt with a chiffon layer gathered in at one hip, and a generous train. She set off the low neckline of the gown with a diamond necklace with a large ruby pendant by Lorraine Schwartz, and wore her hair in a full, wavy bob.
Storm Reid wore a red Alexandre Vauthier ensemble comprising a minidress with a full skirt and a narrow black belt, topped with a voluminous long ruffled jacket/cape that covered most of the bodice of the dress as well as her Pomellato necklace. I liked her black Giuseppe Zanotti slingbacks, her high, sleek pony with a single curl plastered against her forehead, and her mocha lips and cats-eye liner, but the giant cape turned everything into an amorphous red blob.
Zoe Saldaña wore a rich burgundy red satin strapless Saint Laurent bubble gown with a nude bodice studded with gold beading, and two tiered bubbles falling into a narrow skirt, accessorized with sheer black opera gloves and a diamond and emerald Cartier choker and stud earrings. The concept for this dress was wonderful, but the proportions were all wrong. The bodice flattened her figure completely, and the bubble tiers were so long and full that they drooped rather than "bubbled," making the whole look bottom-heavy. The necklace was lovely, but the emerald felt out of place with the dress, and the length felt too short for the bodice style. A few adjustments might have made it more successful, but as it was, this look was not a winner. Fortunately for Saldaña, she was anyway, taking home the best accessory of the evening: an Academy Award statue!
Silver/White
Demi Moore wore a clinging metallic silver beaded custom Armani Privé gown with a plunging neckline, tiny straps, draped detailing at the hips, and a short round train. She accessorized with a diamond wrap cuff bracelet and long earrings. It was a great look for her.
Elle Fanning wore a white lace Givenchy gown with a molded bodice with a sweetheart neckline and narrow straps, a full skirt with a small train, and a black grosgrain bow belt with long trailing ribbons. The design was based on a Hubert de Givenchy dress worn by Ivy Nicholson in 1952. Fanning accessorized with a diamond collar and matching bracelet by Cartier, Louboutin peep-toe heels, and a retro bubble updo. Tres chic!
Felicity Jones wore a shiny silver custom Armani Privé halter dress, featuring side cutouts where the high-necked bodice gathered into the flat bow at the waist, and a straight column skirt. Jones accessorized with diamond pendant earrings, diamond bracelet, and diamond ring, all by Boucheron. Her sleek center-parted low bun hairstyle paired well with the stark silhouette, but her soft makeup took the edge off the starkness.
Halle Berry wore a mirror-paneled fitted strapless Christian Siriano column with sheer black panels at the sides of the skirt, which ended in a short train. Berry wisely eschewed any jewelry other than tiny diamond hoop earrings, and wore her hair in a simple flip, with subtle, natural makeup, letting the glitter of the dress take center stage
Lupita Nyong'o wore a silver and white Chanel gown with a slip-style bodice and straps embellished with various-sized pearls, topped with a bustier embellished with silver crystal beading and a white satin bow, ending in a full pleated skirt. The look was inspired by a dress from Chanel's 1991 Haute Couture collection, originally worn by supermodel Linda Evangelista. Accessories included a Chanel bracelet, earrings, and rings.
Mindy Kaling wore a metallic silver leaf-patterned lace halter column from Oscar de la Renta with a flared skirt and a short train. Like Berry, she kept her accessories minimal, with a few rings and small hoop earrings, with a simple center-parted ponytail and dark makeup. Marvelous look.
Penelope Cruz wore a white chiffon Chanel halter gown with a v-shaped peplum, dozens of tiny jeweled buttons up the bodice, and chiffon straps that formed a trailing cape in the back. I loved the diagonal lines of the straps, the bodice top, and the peplum, along with the softer lines of the cape, and the sparkly buttons were a great detail, as were her diamond earrings and a dazzling starburst diamond ring by Chanel. A very nice look.
Raffey Cassidy wore a white satin Loewe column that tied over one shoulder, with the one leaf-shaped end of the knot sticking up and the other angling down. The single oversized detail added interest to the simple silhouette and the sleek straight hair, diamond drop earrings and bracelet by Joseph Saidian & Sons, and the Aquazzura heels were all just right.
Yvonne Orji wore a silver mirrored Pamella Roland gown that was very similar to Halle Berry's, but lacking the sheer side panels and the additional patterned details. It was flattering and beautiful, but it's never good to be up against Halle Berry on the red carpet, because you will not come out ahead.
Miscellaneous Colors
Cynthia Erivo channeled Oz in a dark green velvet custom Louis Vuitton ballgown with a huge pannier-style skirt, extended off-the-shoulder swaths that looked like a giant bow, and a floating pointed collar. Any one of those details might have looked awkward, but the balance of the three kept everything in proportion, and Erivo's oversized confidence and presence kept the oversized gown from overwhelming her. A spectacular look, worn particularly well.
Doja Cat lived up to her name in a clinging metallic silver-and-black leopard-print Balmain trumpet gown with a exaggerated sweetheart neckline, a neck scarf, and a short train. She accessorized with gold heart-shaped earrings and a pendant necklace. The dress was great, but the choice of gold (rather than platinum or silver) jewelry didn't work for me, and the necklace looked odd under the scarf. I'm sure she wanted the big reveal of her "Diamonds Are Forever" dress at the performance during the ceremony, but I wish she'd worn that one on the red carpet, as well. This dress is fine, but that one was amazing.
Goldie Hawn wore a custom gold satin strapless Dolce & Gabbana gown with a sweetheart neckline, fabric gathering into the waist and wrapping around the hips, and crystal beading forming a starburst pattern, paired with a matching wrap. Her stunning yellow diamond SABYASACHI pendant necklace echoed the crystal pattern on the bodice. Unfortunately, the delicate satin showed a series of "sitting" creases across the front of the dress. Someone clearly forgot to pack a portable steamer for use immediately post-limo. But it was still a gorgeous look on her.
H.E.R. wore a metallic olive green, crystal-embellished Ralph Lauren gown, with a smoothly fitted strapless bodice, a flared skirt with a trtain, and a wide v-shaped leather belt (so very Ralph Lauren). She accessorized with a stunning diamond collar and bracelet by Chopard. I loved the lines of the belt if not quite the style, and the way the crystals covered the top of the bodice but lessened toward the hem, but I didn't love the frayed finish of the hem, which didn't seem to fit with the style of the dress. But it gave me a bit of a Merida vibe, and I liked it.
Isabella Rossellini wore a deep blue crushed velvet custom Dolce & Gabbana dress with a square neckline and an attached cape, which was lovely but slightly forgettable, until the addition of a magnificent diamond and sapphire Bulgari necklace - and a pair of pearl and diamond earrings that belonged to her famous mother, Ingrid Bergman.
Laura Blount stepped straight out of Emerald City in her emerald green gown with a faux hoop skirt with deep slit and short train, and exaggerated leg o'mutton sleeves, with a lace and metallic gold accented sleeve and oversized shoulder detail on one side. The sleeves gave in something of an '80s feel, and overall, it just felt costume-y and forced.
Michelle Yeoh wore a bright blue satin strapless Balenciaga column gathered at the hip, with a full train. The vivid color and the simple design were a great combination, but, similar to Goldie Hawn's satin gown (see above), Yeoh's gown also showed a series of "sitting" creases, which were unfortunately obvious with such a simple design. (Portable steamers, people. Portable steamers!) Fortunately, her dazzling Boucheron diamond choker pulled attention back to her face.
Scarlett Johannson wore a sleek midnight blue velvet Mugler Couture column with a scooped cowl neckline and a barely-flared skirt, paired with matching elbow-length velvet gloves and a stunning diamond necklace and earrings from DeBeers. It was old-style glamour, and I loved its simplicity and elegance.
Whoopi Goldberg wore a custom silvery-blue Christian Siriano ballgown featuring a wide, off-the-shoulder drape across the fitted-to-the-hip bodice, with a bell-shaped skirt and a short train. The fabric was amazing, and the gown was lovely, but it didn't feel like it fit Whoopi's style. Her hairstyle felt more natural for her, but it didn't work with the dramatic formality of the dress. Great dress, wrong wearer.
The Men
Andrew Garfield was cooler than cool in a chocolate brown slim-cut Gucci tuxedo over a matching open-collared satin shirt. The jacket featured a shawl collar edged on the inside with satin matching the shirt, and he accessorized with a gold chain pendant and ring and a pair of amber sunglasses.
Bowen Yang, in custom Etro, upgraded the standard black tux by adding gorgeous colorful metallic floral embroidery on the front of his shiny satin jacket, and wearing it over an old-school pink ruffled tux shirt. Although I wish there had been some pink in the embroidery to unify the shirt and jacket, it was a fun and different look, and he looked great.
Colman Domingo wore my favorite look on the night in a striking Valentino double-breasted scarlet tuxedo jacket with black lapels and a tied wrap closure, over a matching red shirt and black tuxedo pants. His Boucheron jewelry included a gold bracelet, pinkie ring, ear studs, and small vintage lapel pin. King of the Carpet!
Emmanuel Janvier wore a long Tiffany blue double-breasted jacket with satin lapels, metallic silver embroidery, and a wrap closure, over cream linen pants. Janvier eschewed a shirt, accessorizing with a dramatic silver starburst lapel pin with a large lavender pearl at the center, tiny silver hoop earrings, and black suede loafers. I agree with some critics that the pants were a little too baggy and long, but I loved the concept and the outfit was relaxed and elegant.
Jeremy Strong wore a taupe Loro Piana tuxedo with satin lapels over a white dress shirt with a matching taupe crossover tie. With his sloped shoulders echoing the angled lines of the tie, combined with the bland color, he looked droopy and washed out. It was a nice tux, it just didn't work for him.
Joe Locke went for old-fashioned formality in a Celine ensemble of a black morning coat with a metallic gold brocade waistcoat over a white shirt with a white bow tie and grey formal trousers. He looked elegant, but a little out of place. [Note: Since the event started at 4pm local time, a morning coat was appropriate. See this diagram for the difference between a morning coat and an evening coat, called a dinner coat in the UK.)
Omar Apollo went for an eclectic look by accessorizing his black Valentino tuxedo with a black-and-white polka dot shirt, a fringed cream-and-black patterned scarf in lieu of a necktie, a silver lizard brooch, black patent pumps with white diamond insets, and a black dotted birdcage veil. The veil was the one jarring detail for me, especially as it was just perched on his head, rather than being attached to a hat (although, to be fair, a hat with a veil might not have been an improvement), but other than that, I thought his outfit had class and personality.
Timothee Chalamet wore a soft yellow leather Givenchy suit with a cropped, double-breasted jacket worn open and a matching yellow satin shirt with a small brooch at the collar. It was casual but elegant, and the color certainly stood out amidst a sea of black tuxedos. And isn't that what every celebrity on the red carpet is hoping for?
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