Wednesday, November 23, 2022

Sushi: What You Need to Know

I love sushi, but I don't always understand the terms I see on the menu, or the subtleties of how to eat it. What is the difference between sashimi and maki? What am I supposed to do with the green and pink stuff that comes on the side? Should I eat it with chopsticks, or with my fingers?

If you have the same questions, fear not! I have gathered all the information you need to order and eat sushi with confidence. 

Let's start with a bit of history. The original form of sushi was a Japanese staple made from salted fish and fermented rice. The word "sushi" means "sour" and refers to the flavor of the fermented original. But over time, sushi has changed into being made with fresh fish instead of salted and rice flavored with vinegar rather than fermented. It was adopted by American eaters and has further evolved into its own style here. 

Now let's look at some terms. First of all, what defines "sushi"? Most people think of sushi as being raw fish, but what actually makes it sushi is the rice, not the fish! In fact, Western-style sushi is frequently made with cooked fish and/or vegetables, in addition to the more traditional raw fish. But whatever it is,  if it is wrapped in sushi rice (short grain rice seasoned with vinegar and sugar), it's sushi.


Something that isn't sushi, but that many people think of as sushi, is "sashimi." Sashimi does not involve rice. It is simply strips of raw fish. It is often served with the same condiments as sushi: wasabi, soy sauce, and ginger. (More about those later.)


What do you get when you put sashimi on top of sushi rice? You get a type of sushi called ngiri. Ngiri takes a flattened ball of sushi rice and tops it with strips of raw fish. It is designed to be eaten with the hands, and is usually served in pairs. 


The type of sushi that most Americans picture when they hear the term is called "maki," or sometimes "maki rolls." Maki is made by laying out a sheet of seaweed (called "nori"), topping it with a layer of sushi rice, adding fish (raw or cooked) and/or vegetables, then rolling it into a long cylinder which is cut into thick disks. 

Uncut maki roll


There are a number of variations of maki, including temaki, which is made individually by wrapping the nori into a cone shape; hosomaki, which are rolls containing only a single filling besides the nori and rice; futomaki, larger rolls filled with combinations of ingredients; and uramaki, which reverses the nori and rice so the rice is on the outside. 


Any of these rolls may also be garnished with fish roe or sesame seeds (white or black), and may be drizzled with a sauce. All are generally served with wasabi, soy sauce, and pickled ginger. 

Maki rolls have different names based on their fillings. Although many sushi restaurants create their own flavor combinations, there are a number of relatively universal types. (Much like cocktails, where everyone serves Manhattans and Cosmopolitans, but also their own signature drinks.) Here are a few of the more common types of maki that you're likely to see on American menus, with their fillings.

  • California roll: Uramaki style (rice on the outside), the filling includes avocado, crabmeat (usually imitation), and cucumber, and is frequently rolled in vivid orange tobiko (flying fish roe).

  • Tempura roll: Also uramaki style, the filling includes shrimp dipped in tempura batter and fried, plus vegetables like avocado and cucumber. It is frequently rolled so the shrimp tail sticks out of some of the rolls, and may be rolled in tobiko.
  • Spicy tuna roll: Always contains raw tuna mixed with a spicy mayonnaise, but may be made uramaki style or not, the tuna may be minced or in large chunks, and it may include vegetables or only the tuna. It is frequently garnished with black sesame seeds.
 

  • Dragon rolls: These are similar to tempura rolls but with a fancier presentation. They are uramaki filled with tempura shrimp, avocado, cucumber, and sometimes eel. However, they are presented in the shape of a dragon's body, topped with black sesame seeds and/or tobiko and strips of avocado which resemble scales, and are then drizzled with spicy mayonnaise and unagi sauce (a thick, sweetened soy sauce often served with eel). 
 

  • Philadelphia roll: May be served uramaki style or not, but is filled with salmon (raw or more often smoked), cream cheese, avocado, and cucumber. 

  •  Rainbow roll: Something of a maki-ngiri hybrid, rainbow rolls are rolled like maki, but draped with different types of sashimi or slices of avocado to make different bright colors. Filling is usually imitation crab, cucumber, and avocado, plus raw salmon, tuna, shrimp, or yellowtail. 
  • Spider roll: Yet another that may or may not be served uramaki style, the filling includes tempura soft-shelled crab, cucumber, avocado, and spicy mayonnaise. It is often served with crab legs sticking out of some of the rolls. 

If you're still not sure what to order, don't be afraid to ask your server for recommendations. Or, if you're feeling bold, order "omakase" style, which leaves your order to the discretion of the chef. (Be sure to mention any food allergies or strong dislikes if you choose this option.) 

But how do I eat the sushi once I've ordered? First of all, either chopsticks or fingers are usually acceptable. Eating sushi with a fork is much more difficult than chopsticks, even if you're not that good with chopsticks. When in doubt, use your fingers. If you like a little spice, mix a bit of wasabi into your soy sauce. Wasabi is a spicy paste made from horseradish. "True" wasabi is made from a specific type of Japanese horseradish, but due to expense and availability, you're more likely to be served "western wasabi," which is made from more common types of horseradish and some green food coloring. Traditional Japanese sushi frequently included wasabi in the sushi, but Western palates are more sensitive to spice, so most chefs leave it to the diner to add their own to their preferred level of heat. A little wasabi goes a long way, so go easy at first. Use your chopsticks to pinch off a bit of sushi and mix it into the dish of soy sauce. Dip your sushi in the sauce (dip, don't soak, or your sushi will fall apart), and eat each piece as a single bite! It may be a bit large, but it's less messy to eat it whole than to try to cut or bite it in two. If your sushi is already drizzled with a sauce, there's no need to dip it in the soy sauce. 
Pickled ginger (top left), wasabi (bottom left), and soy sauce (right)


What's that pink stuff on my plate? Sushi is usually served with pickled ginger, which is used as a palate cleanser between courses and between different types of sushi, and to aid in digestion. (I just like the flavor and consider it part of dessert.) You don't need to mix or combine it with anything, just take a piece and enjoy the flavor. 

What etiquette rules do I need to know? As mentioned above, eat each piece of sushi as a single bite. If soy sauce is served in a shared bottle, pour a small amount into your dish for dipping. In very traditional (non-Westernized) sushi restaurants, wasabi should not be mixed with soy sauce, but you should place a dab of wasabi on one side of the roll and dip the other side in the soy sauce. (However, in most American restaurants, mixing the two is perfectly fine.) When dipping ngiri, dip the fish in the sauce, not the rice. And if you order ngiri, don't eat the fish and leave the rice. Either eat both parts or order sashimi instead. If you are served both sashimi and sushi, eat the sashimi first. If you are not served soy sauce and wasabi, don't request it. If it does not come with your order, chances are the chef has already added spice to the rolls themselves. You may be offered a hot towel at the beginning of the meal; use it to clean your hands before eating (never use it on your face). At the end of your meal, lay your chopsticks next to each other against one side of your bowl or dish. Never cross them over your bowl, as this is a funeral tradition in Japan. In a high-end Japanese restaurant, you can show your appreciation for a good meal by offering to buy the chef a shot of sake, and have one with him if he accepts. (Side note: it's pronounced SAH-keh, not SAH-kee.) Also, offer the chef a deep, respectful bow as you are leaving. 

Now go out there and don't forget to enjoy your sushi with your eyes as well as your taste buds!





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