A Weekend in New York City

Living in a Boston suburb as I do, a visit to New York City is a very manageable weekend trip. And since my son is away on a week-long Scout trip sailing in Florida this school vacation week, my husband and daughter and I decided we'd spend a 3-day weekend in New York City. Being theatre people, we go to NYC frequently to catch a Broadway show and other local attractions, so we've covered a lot of the usual tourist destinations: Empire State Building, Top of the Rock, Statue of Liberty, Madame Tussaud's, Central Park, Bronx Zoo, Staten Island Ferry, Museum of Modern Art, Metropolitan Art Museum, Museum of Natural History, 9/11 Memorial, and on and on. But this time, we managed to catch a few new (for us) adventures as well as revisiting some old favorites. This was our schedule for a great 3-day weekend. 

Friday Night

We frequently take the train from a nearby station all the way into NYC, but due to dropping my son off for his trip, we weren't sure exactly what time we'd be able to get to the local station. So this time, we opted to drive to Connecticut and pick up the train at New Haven, where the trains run into the city more frequently. Due to heavy commuter traffic, it took us a little more than 2.5 hours to reach New Haven, but there was a train headed for Grand Central Station leaving about 30 minutes after we arrived, so we bought tickets online at the station, grabbed a quick snack, and hopped on board. Two hours later, at around 9:45pm, we arrived at Grand Central Station.

We stayed at the Marriott Courtyard Manhattan 5th Avenue, which was less than a 10-minute walk from Grand Central Station. Our walk gave us a preview of Summit One Vanderbilt, a new observation tower for which we had tickets the next morning, and Bryant Park, home to one of several public outdoor ice skating rinks in the city. In addition to skating, Bryant Park Winter Village offers food and cocktails from multiple food booths and restaurants, a "curling cafe", bumper cars on ice, and afternoon tea in heated igloos. Since it was nearly 10pm when we checked in, our daughter opted to go straight to bed, while my husband and I decided to go out for a nightcap. We asked the concierge for a recommendation for a nearby "old people bar," and without hesitation, he told us to go to Mulligan's, a traditional Irish pub that was literally around the corner, about a 2-minute walk. 

Mulligan's was just as charming as you would expect of an Irish pub in the heart of NYC, with a long bar on one side of the room and a series of high-top tables running along the other. We grabbed a high top and checked out the bar menu. I ordered a Classic Cosmo while my husband got (appropriately enough) a Manhattan, and we split an order of nachos with chicken while we watched the locals chatting at the bar and a few couples celebrating a late-night Valentine's Day date. Then back to the hotel and ready for the morning!

Saturday Morning & Afternoon

Once again, we relied on the hotel concierge for a breakfast recommendation. We told them we liked diner style, someplace with good coffee that would have options like pancakes, French toast, omelets, and breakfast sandwiches. They suggested either Madison & Vine or the Pershing Square. We checked out the menus and took a peek at both restaurants, and opted for Pershing Square as having a more casual vibe. 

Their coffee stood up to their claim of being the best in town. It was strong but not bitter, and the waiter repeatedly refilled my cup before it ever got a chance to get cool. It was exactly what I needed to fortify myself for a long day of on-foot adventures! The scrambled eggs, homefries, toast, and bacon helped with that, too. My daughter's Belgian waffle was decorated with artfully sliced strawberries, whipped cream, and powdered sugar, and my husband's egg sandwich on toasted ciabatta was also a big hit. We ate them all before I remembered to take photos, that's how good they were. Next stop: Summit One Vanderbilt!

Once again, it was just a short walk, so we didn't bother with public transportation, just our own feet. A few comments about NYC observation decks: There are a number of them, each with their own advantages and special features. Here are some of the most popular. 

• The Empire State Building (20 West 34th Street, midtown)
• The first, and in many ways still one of the best. There is a well-done historical exhibit on the way up to the 86th floor outdoor observation deck, and for an additional fee you can go to the enclosed observation deck on the 102nd floor. QR codes provide additional information about the landmarks you're seeing. At night, the tower lights up, often with colors related to a particular holiday or cause. 
• Other nearby attractions: Macy's in Herald Square, Fifth Avenue shopping, the Chrysler Building
• Top of the Rock (Rockefeller Center, midtown)
• NBC's flagship building has three observation decks: the 67th floor (indoor), the Breezeway (outdoor), and the 70th floor (open-air deck with frameless windows and a 360-degree view). An available audio tour app provides information on the history of the building and the various views. 
• Other nearby attractions: The Rockefeller Center skating rink, Radio City Music Hall, FAO Schwartz 
• One World Observatory (One World Trade Center, lower Manhattan)
• This is the tallest building in the western hemisphere, so it's one of the best views of the city. High-speed elevators bring you to the 100th to 102nd floors, which feature ceiling-to-floor windows for a 360-degree view. There is no outdoor observation deck. For an additional fee, you can rent a digital guide which identifies and provides information about various landmarks. There is a bar and restaurant on the 101st floor. 
• Other nearby attractions: 9/11 Memorial, Brooklyn Bridge
•  Edge NYC (30 Hudson Yards)
• Their claim to fame is the highest outdoor observation deck in the western hemisphere. If you're an adrenaline junkie, you can climb the outside of the building (on a harness, of course) and lean over for the best view. If you're daring but not quite that daring, you can walk out or lie down on the glass floor section of the observation deck 100 stories above the city. 
• Other nearby attractions: Hudson Yards Mall, the High Line
• The crown of the Statue of Liberty (Liberty Island)
• Take a ferry from the mainland to Liberty Island, then climb the 162 stairs from the pedestal to the crown for a view of New York Harbor. It's a less visually impressive view than the others on this list, but the historical significance makes it worthwhile. 
• Other nearby attractions: Ellis Island, the 9/11 Memorial and Museum, Charging Bull and Fearless Girl Statues (Wall Street)
• Summit One Vanderbilt (45 East 42nd Street, midtown)
• This attraction combines the panoramic view with a different interactive art installation on the 91st, 92nd, and 93rd floors (more details below). Nighttime visits include colored lights.
• Other nearby attractions: Bryant Park, Grand Central Station, Chrysler Building 

After scanning your wristband and taking a photo of your face (for a fun treat later on), a remarkably smooth high-speed elevator brings you to the 91st floor, where you receive a pair of paper shoe covers (to help keep the glass and mirrored floors pristine for maximum effect) and an optional pair of sunglasses - the mirrored floors and walls intensify the natural sunlight to a blinding level at times. 

The exhibit on this floor is entitled "Air: Transcendence 1". Everywhere you looks are mirrors (avoid wearing a skirt or loose shorts, as many of the floors and ceilings are opposing mirrors) and glass, including reflective tubes between the floors. 

Everywhere you go there are marvelous views of the city and many of her most famous landmarks. Head up to the 92nd floor for some even better views, including peeking down from Transcendence 2 back into Transcendence 1, then move on to the room called "Air: Affinity," which is filled with various-sized silver balloons, some floating on the ceiling, some rolling on the floor, and some lazily floating between the two. 

I literally did not see a single person in that room who was not smiling. How can you not smile when you feel like a bubble in a glass of champagne overlooking the glorious NYC skyline?

The photos taken before you entered come into play as you enter "Air: Unity" and scan your wristband. Your face appears in a huge video of rolling clouds. It's cool, if also a bit trippy, and of course, professional photos are available for purchase at the end of your tour. (We declined, which is why the photo above is not of me.)

On your way up to the 93rd floor, the most daring can jump into line for a chance to stand on a glass ledge overlooking Madison Avenue. (We opted to skip the 20-minute wait.) The 93rd floor features a cafe with coffee and pastries and an open-air observation deck. It was very windy and quite chilly that day, so we went outside for a few moments before heading back in. Honestly, the views from inside were just as impressive, so we didn't even feel like we'd missed much. But I did envy the people casually sitting in the cafe with their croissants and cappuccinos. What a way to spend your morning!

Our next stop was another new-to-us experience: The Museum of Broadway. 

Located at 145 West 45th Street (just off Broadway, naturally), this was another relatively easy walk, less than 15 minutes from Summit One Vanderbilt. Staffed by fellow Broadway fans (and even some Broadway veterans), the guides are not only knowledgeable and happy to answer questions, they'll also make sure you get the perfect angle for that photo and will take one of you if you like. The Museum offers multiple photo stations that make you feel like you're a Broadway star yourself. 

But I'm getting ahead of myself. The tour starts with a brief video presentation explaining how "Broadway" came to represent American musical theatre, as performance spaces moved from the financial district into Union and Herald Squares and finally to their current location near Times Square.  

The next section of the museum walks through the timeline of Broadway musicals, including show posters, costumes, props, and other memorabilia. Brace yourselves for my geeking out at the amazing costumes; feel free to skim or even skip this part if that's not your thing. 

Although some costumes are displayed simply on a mannequin 

with an explanatory plaque, this costume from Show Boat (1927)

was displayed against an elaborate backdrop made from script pages. 

Dolly's iconic red dress and headpiece from Hello, Dolly (1964), 

worn by Carol Channing during the title number. 

Cassie's red leotard and wrap skirt from A Chorus Line (1975), worn by  

Donna McKechnie, displayed in a mirrored room similar to the set for 

"The Music and the Mirror." And yes, I did a little kick and a layback. 

And no, there is no photographic proof. 

Patti LuPone wore this white gown for the famous balcony scene
in the title role of Evita (1979). Her wig from this scene is also on display.

A number of costumes are displayed alongside the designer's original 

sketch and fabric swatches, such as this Red Death costume from the 

"Masquerade" scene in Phantom of the Opera (1988). 

Mark's costume from Rent (1996), worn by Anthony Rapp.

One of the finale costumes from Mamma Mia! (2001). 

Multiple costumes from Hair (I'm not sure if these were from 

the original 1968 production or one of the four 

subsequent revivals, possibly the 2011 production). 

Although most of the costumes are from leading characters,

this Emerald City costume was worn by a member of the ensemble

in the 2015 televised production of The Wiz Live! 

(lower photo; not from the museum). 

Several costumes from Hamilton (2015).

Catherine of Aragon's costume from Six (2021). 

In addition to costumes, there were wonderful displays of shoes, accessories, props, and other items. I particularly loved how battered many of the dance shoes were. 

Anne Reinking's rhinestone shoes from Chicago (1996). 

Shoes and other props from the (sadly short-lived) 

Britney Spears-inspired musical Once Upon a One More Time (2023).

Patti LuPone used this martini glass as Joanne in the

2021 revival of Company. And one for Mahler!

A bundle of "papes" from Newsies (2012).

The museum includes posters and displays from lesser-known

productions, including my beloved City of Angels (1989). 

This lovely display is made from exactly 13,981 crystals, representing the number of performances Phantom of the Opera had on Broadway, from its first preview on January 8, 1988, through its closing performance on April 16, 2023. The mask can only be seen from a very specific angle. 

A display which may be as interesting to non-theatre people as it is to theatre people, this miniature of the Gershwin Theatre depicts the theater during the run of Wicked, including the front of house, stage, backstage, dressing and green rooms, below-stage tech center, and basement set and costume workshops.  

The next section of the museum represents the backstage technical areas. Stage managers and other techies will appreciate the electronic lighting and sound boards and monitors; sewists, designers, and artists will enjoy the costume boards and workshops; and everyone will get a kick out of the stairwells describing actors' backstage lives, including pre-show vocal warmups and stretches that frequently happen in those stairwells - or even on the roof. There are photographs on the walls of many Broadway actors - both familiar faces and relative unknowns - prepping for performances.

As with most museums, you exit through the gift shop. But in this case, the gift shop is filled with all kinds of Broadway merch, from show tees and caps to commemorative programs to logo water bottles to theatre-related books and trinkets. 

After spending several hours enjoying the museum, we headed back to our hotel to change clothes before heading out for dinner and a show. 

Saturday Night

We'd been keeping our eyes open all day for somewhere interesting for dinner. Oddly enough, despite our preference for local hot spots, the Red Lobster in Times Square was the right location and the right menu for what we all had in mind. 

Although we were not able to get tickets to Death Becomes Her, I had to grab a photo of the show poster and of myself with the hilariously morphing poster of Jennifer Simard as Helen Sharp as we were walking by on our way to dinner. Not only is she talented, hilarious, and gorgeous, but when the high school I worked at performed Mean Girls (which she performed in on Broadway), she graciously made a "Break a Leg" video for our cast on opening night. Broadway people are THE BEST. 

So after a dinner of lobster bisque, crispy dragon shrimp, scallops, steak, chicken caesar salad, and of course Red Lobster's signature cheddar biscuits, we headed over to the New Amsterdam Theatre to see Aladdin.

There were a number of cast changes for this performance, including an understudy in for Aladdin, a standby in for Genie, an understudy in for Babkak (whose actor had stepped into the Genie role), a swing in for Razoul, and another swing in for the ensemble track normally played by Aladdin's understudy. As a theatre person, I am always (okay, almost always) delighted when a backup performer steps into a role. They are rarely under-prepared, and they are always out to prove they belong on that stage, which results in some amazing performances, sometimes from young actors who will go on to make names for themselves. And this production was no exception; if I didn't know this wasn't the regular cast, I never would have guessed. The whole production was an unexpected delight. 

Don't get me wrong: I expected to enjoy the performance. I got the terrific orchestra, impressive vocals, funny mugging, and gorgeous costumes I expected. But I was surprised and delighted at the huge amount of ensemble dance in varied styles and ever-changing costumes and often including props like scarves, swords, and feathers; the amount of stage magic, which included disappearing and reappearing props (and actors), pyrotechnics, magically growing set pieces, 3-dimensional projections, spinning trapdoors, and a fantastically effective flying carpet; and instant on-stage costume changes for Aladdin, Genie, and Jafar (3 times in a row, including his hat!). Disney magic at its best!

A mix of snow and rain was falling lightly as we headed home, so we were glad to call it a night after the show and tuck ourselves into bed at the hotel. 

Sunday Morning & Afternoon

Sunday was dedicated to my daughter and her preferences. We were planning on stopping for breakfast at a nearby Dunks' (it's her favorite - you can take the girl out of Boston, but...), but on the way we passed a tempting-looking Italian bakery called Rosetta and impulsively changed our minds. 

I got a huge chocolate-filled croissant to go with my gourmet coffee, my daughter got an adorable heart-shaped fruit tart and a big mug of frothy hot chocolate, and my husband got a ham and Swiss breakfast sandwich on a croissant. Then we headed off to Rockefeller Center to see if my daughter could get a chance to ice skate before the expected rain. 

The light drizzle kept the crowds to a minimum, and my husband quickly decided to join her on the ice. Of course they made sure to grab a selfie in front of Atlas. Before their hour was up, it really started to pour and they decided they were done, but it was fun to check off such an iconic tourist experience from their lists!

Due to the rain, we had planned to spend the middle of the day at Japan Village in Brooklyn (my daughter is fascinated with all things Asian, but most especially Japanese). The Village is a mill building that houses multiple Japanese restaurants and shops, something along the lines of Quincy Market in Boston. It was a little far to walk, so we ducked into the nearest subway station and picked up some OMNY cards, then hopped an R train to the 36th Street station and walked about a block to the entrance to the Village at 3rd Avenue. 

It was a little early for lunch, so although we checked out the food vendors on the first floor as we passed, we were aiming for a big second-hand anime store called Bookoff on the second level. They specialize in figurines as well as pins, trading cards, manga, and video games. My daughter took all kinds of photos of her friends' favorite figurines, and finally found a great deal on one for herself. She later discovered he was missing the blade of his sword, but for $7, we'll find a way to make him a new blade. My husband and I were done shopping long before she was, but there were some traditional Japanese musicians setting up for an upcoming concert, so he and I sat and enjoyed listening to them play and sing while she shopped. 

Once she was done shopping, we headed back to the "food court" so she could try some new foods that she had read about. Her first course was Classic Tonkotsu from Ramen Setagaya. It's a ramen bowl dish that includes chashu (rolled up pork belly), bamboo shoots, scallions, corn, and some kind of pretty pasta-type thing with pink swirls. It was beautiful as well as delicious. 

Next was a type of Japanese rice ball called onigiri, from Obentoyasan. She tried one filled with salmon and another with ajitama (a boiled egg marinated in soy sauce), both wrapped in seaweed. They were delicious! We might have to try making them at home some time. For dessert, also from Obentoyasan, she chose taiyaki, a sweet filled cake shaped like a fish. Although red bean paste is the traditional filling, most bakeries offer a number of options, including her choice of Nutella. The Nutella gets all melty and the soft cake (which has almost a waffle-like flavor and texture) absorbs it for even more deliciousness. 

I don't know where she found room (God bless teenage metabolism), but she was determined to get some takoyaki, a fried octopus dish she had read about and then tried at Quincy Market in Boston and loved. Fortunately, Hachi had it on the menu. She didn't quite have room to finish all six pieces, but luckily for her, a) I'd brought my tote bag-sized purse, and b) it came in a lidded plastic box that sealed reasonably tightly. Luckily for me, the yummy sauce had a stronger smell than the octopus, because my fleece gloves which were also in my purse are going to smell like takoyaki until I get a chance to throw them in the washing machine. 

Once she had seen everything she wanted to at the Village, my husband suggested we head for Little Italy. Not being a big fan of Japanese food, he had patiently been surviving on a handful of chocolate-covered raisins while looking forward to a good New York pizza. But as often happens to us on many of our adventures (but especially in NYC), we stumbled across something fun on our way. 

Little Italy is right next to Chinatown, and we unexpectedly found our way blocked by a Chinese New Year parade! The rain was putting a slight damper on the festivities (the snake was wearing an improvised raincoat), but everyone was so joyous and happy, it felt like the sun was out. A sidewalk vendor handed us each funny light-up 2025 glasses and another was passing out branded string backpacks, and some of the floats had confetti cannons to shoot into the crowd. Everyone was in a celebratory mood despite the rain. Once the parade ended, we continued into Little Italy, but my husband couldn't find anyplace that grabbed him, so we decided to head back towards the hotel because he had seen a "Joe's Pizza" on the way that he'd heard about and really wanted to try. 

There was a pretty long line, which was a good sign for the quality of the pizza, but not so great for the two tired girls who didn't want pizza. So my daughter and I (neither of whom is a very reliable navigator) bravely set off together for the hotel, which fortunately was directly down the street. 

Sunday Night

By the time he got his pizza and made it back to the hotel, she and I had agreed that she did NOT want any dinner (other than probably the remaining purse takoyaki and possibly some hot chocolate from the hotel lobby), so I began looking for a "date night" dinner option within walking distance for just my husband and I. I found two promising options: The Elgin, and Benny John's. The menu at The Elgin was a bit more eclectic, with smoked wild boar chili and steamed bao buns mixed in with the more standard chicken milanese and steak au poivre; whereas Benny John's had multiple steak options, all the classic pasta dishes, plus other chicken and seafood options. We decided to go for a later dinner and made a 7pm reservation for 2 at Benny John's. All three of us took a refreshing nap, then my daughter settled in with her phone and a movie while he and I got dressed up and headed off to dinner. 

We were running early, so we strolled over by Radio City to take our obligatory selfie (his mom, as well as several other family members and friends, was a Rockette, so we try to get a photo any time we're in New York). While we were walking around, we heard some excited screaming over by Rockefeller Center, so we went over to see if we could figure out what was going on. Neither of us had realized that the SNL 50th anniversary celebration included a performance that night (it was Sunday, after all, not Saturday), and there were dozens of black SUVs dropping off celebrities at the red carpet. Sadly, we couldn't quite force our way far enough through the crowds to see anyone, but it was fun checking out the performers later and wondering who we had been thisclose to. But it was close enough to our reservation time that we were ready to head for the restaurant. 

Benny John's was charming but surprisingly quiet for a Sunday night. We asked to be seated at the back, which was decorated with a Spanish toreador motif, with an elegant color theme that was black and white with splashes of red. A large party was seated near us at a long table under a rectangular mirror surrounded by bookshelves full of books that were also mainly black and white with the occasional red spine. 

We began our meal with cocktails and appetizers: for me, a Vanderbilt cocktail (cognac, cherry brandy, and simple syrup) and a beet salad (red and golden beets, baby spinach, goat cheese, walnuts, and a honey dressing); for him, a Manhattan and French onion soup.  

For our main courses, I chose the pappardelle Bolognese and he chose the Frenched rib lamb chop, plus we shared an order of lobster risotto (which we knew we wouldn't finish, but we thought our daughter might have just enough room for a taste before bed). 

Our daughter's one request had been to bring her home some creme brulee if they had it on the menu, so we convinced our waiter that it was okay to scrape it out of the ramekin and into a to-go container and that we didn't mind if it didn't look pretty. But we figured we ought to mollify him by also ordering a piece of New York cheesecake with raspberry coulis and whipped cream. No regrets. 

It was a wonderful dining experience and we both agreed we'd gladly eat there again. Apparently it's a relatively new restaurant, having opened only about 18 months ago. I hope they're able to build up their business, because the ambiance is lovely (the background music was perfect, both in volume and in style) and the food and service are excellent. I wish them well and I encourage anyone reading this to check them out if you are ever in the area - it's convenient to the Theatre District, Grand Central Station, Rockefeller Center, and Times Square.  

The walk home helped burn off a little bit of that cheesecake, and the happy grin from our daughter upon seeing her (ugly but delicious) creme brulee was the perfect end to the perfect evening. 

Monday Morning & Afternoon

My husband planned to work in his company's NYC office on Monday, so we opted to have a quick breakfast at a gourmet coffee shop and bakery right next to the hotel. As in, so close that we didn't even bother to wear coats despite the temperature being only in the teens. 

Crema's breakfast menu ranged from elegant pastries to fruit and yogurt to hearty diner-style combos, and their drink options included not only coffee, tea, and juice, but also every imaginable kind of smoothie. I opted for a large coffee, which came in a old-fashioned, solid stoneware cup that nearly took two hands to lift. Not only was the coffee excellent, but the heavy cup served to insulate and it keep it plenty hot throughout breakfast. I ordered scrambled eggs with feta and tomatoes, which came with multigrain toast that was to die for. The other two got the pancake breakfast which included scrambled eggs and bacon. It was an excellent - and quick - meal to start our last day in the city. We went back to the hotel and my daughter and I packed up and got ready to check out while my husband took a couple of work calls. When he wrapped things up, we checked out and hopped back on the subway. The girls had decided that we wanted to ride the Staten Island Ferry, which is not far from his office, so the three of us traveled together as far as Canal Street, then he took our bags and headed for the office while we continued on to South Ferry. 

We arrived at about 9:45am, so we had about 15 minutes to wait for the next ferry. It wasn't that busy, so we grabbed some seats near the door and stood up when a crowd started to gather, so we were very near the front of the line. It was extremely windy and quite chilly, and I was afraid the ferry might be crowded, with everyone wanting to be inside, but we had no problem finding a window seat with a good view. 

 

Now...

...and then.

Unlike the two previous days, which had been overcast with snow and rain, it was a gorgeously clear (albeit very windy) day. My daughter really, REALLY wanted to recreate a photo I had taken a few years ago when we took the ferry, so after enjoying the view from inside for a while, we fought our way outside through the crowds and the wind to catch another photo with Lady Liberty. When we reached the terminal on Staten Island, we circled around and managed to catch the returning ferry right away, making it back to Manhattan right at 11. We fought the wind (I mean really fought the wind - when we left the terminal I was leaning into the wind at about a 70-degree angle and could barely make any headway, and my hood kept blowing off) and managed to find our way to Brookfield Place, a fancy mall in Battery Park near the World Trade Center. My daughter was hoping for another chance to go ice skating, but the skating rink didn't open until 11:30am, and since we were planning on leaving at 11:45 to meet my husband for lunch, we had to leave that for another time. So we just took a break from the walking and the wind for a little bit, then we walked up Cedar Street and met my husband at his office. We took back our bags and headed for his favorite bodega. 

My daughter got another fancy ramen bowl, my husband got his favorite steak and cheese sub, and I got a spicy chicken fried rice bowl with kimchi, seaweed, and sesame seeds. It was so delicious, and the spice level was absolutely perfect. All that was left was the train ride home. We headed back to Grand Central Station just in time to catch the 1:34pm train, arriving in New Haven at 3:36pm. We were ahead of the commuter traffic so the drive home only took a couple of hours, and we were being greeted by our cats (Cat #1, twining around our feet: "I THOUGHT YOU WERE NEVER COMING HOME!!!!" Cat #2, casually strolling past: "Oh, were you gone?") well before 6pm. It was a wonderful trip, but it's always good to come home. Even if the cat isn't all that impressed.